12-22-08: Ataturk

Lyn Verinsky on Ataturk [v5]

Hidden on the far end of the main Bridalveil boulder, is a cool traverse (not always an oxymoron). It starts on underclings at the bottom of an unnamed seam problem (#6 on page 37 in new guide) but heads left on good holds and finishes on the v0.

Ataturk was named after Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey. I'm not sure why that popped into my head, but he is a pretty amazing man.


As many of you all know, the valley is currently blanketed by a good layer of snow. It looks like it might be time to start heading to Bishop, or farther south if things don't start to melt soon. I guess it is a testament to how much I like the valley, when I won't totally give up on the season when the web cam looks like this!



-Raza

12-15-2008 Changing Corners

For anyone who climbs in the Valley, these are dark times. The weather seriously crapped out on Friday, but even so, a hardcore group of us hit the road early Saturday AM in hopes that the reality wasn't as bad as the forecast. Receiving the message from a kind soul in the Valley that "it's wet, there's an inch of snow on the road and it's currently snowing" fifteen minutes out of Oakdale, we reluctantly turned around and headed home. The next couple weeks look grim: snow and rain.

So now what? Although I don't have any video footage of Drive On (isn't that one of the problems shown in that Dosage V movie?), I do have a couple clips of another awesome climb. Located on the same boulder as Shadow Warrior in Candyland, Changing Corners is an enigmatic piece of climbing that is greatly satisfying to unlock. It's all about one key sloper that feels incredibly insecure until your right foot gets about elbow level. Use the first video as a lesson on what NOT to do at the top. Amazingly, Mike was completely unscathed from his crazy fall and after taking a few more, only slightly less spectacular, diggers, sent the rig.



Mike Wickwire on Changing Corners [v8]

And now here's video of Tim Medina making it look easy with his impeccable Yosemite footwork and technique.



Tim Medina on Changing Corners [v8]

- Lyn

12-6-2008 Thanksgiving Sendfest

Well, this past week has seen several ascents of some cool boulder problems and since it seems folks enjoy watching video, I'm posting 'em. Was it the ham and Thanksgiving festivities that brought on this onslaught of sendage? I'm not sure, but whatever the cause, the result was awesome to watch. First on the send rampage was Paul bagging Shadow Warrior in Candyland. Truly a beautiful boulder in a picturesque setting with lots of great energy from the crew! You all know about this problem from a previous post (here), so without further ado, here's the send: (love those scissor kicks!)



Paul Barraza on Shadow Warrior [v12]

Courtney got in on the boulder crushing as well by dispatching Zodiac [v10] and Tap Dance [v10] in short order. Zodiac is a crimpy face climb located on the El Cap Boulder along with such classics as Spock Was Here [v6] and some other reachy, dihedral climb whose name I can't recall at the moment (really classic, huh?). Anyway, it was an inspiring night send of a damn tall boulder problem so props to her! And I know Courtney would kill me for not mentioning that the send was much assisted by the outrageously good beta provided by crimp-meister Natasha Barnes.


Courtney Hemphill on Zodiac [v10] FFA?

Tap Dance is a slightly less inspiring line - okay, it's kind of a butt dragger and doesn't have any kind of line at all, but it's still darn fun climbing. Also in contrast to Zodiac, the crux moves are on slopers and technical heel hooks - super cool. It's a rare boulder problem in Yosemite that doesn't require a load of Organic pads to make safe, so for that alone, this problem is a gem. Located on the Wine Boulder, Tap Dance starts sitting matched on an obvious side-pull. Tall people should disregard the beta used below, but for shorties, it's pure brilliance.



Courtney Hemphill on Tap Dance [v10] FFA?

Finally, yesterday Paul ticked off a surprise send of Yabo Roof [v12] made famous in Dosage V. What an awesome climb! After being disappointed by it being wet the week before, we hiked out with some trepidation. Fortunately, all concern was immediately dispelled; conditions couldn't have been more ideal. So Paul, without a fuss, sent on his second try of the day. Sorry for my shaky camera-work, I have excuses, but I won't bore you with them. Kevin came incredibly close to sticking the crux sequence for a double send, but he opted to create more drama by waiting to dispatch. Yes, Justin, you would have run off to puke in the trees if you had seen how close he got.



Paul Barraza on Yabo Roof [v12]

- Lyn

12-3-08: Billy in the Wheel Well

Patti Phillips on Billy in the Wheel Well [v4]

On the way into the valley it is easy to drive on by the Yosemite Speedway boulder, and I have to assume most people do -judging by the amount of pine needles I find on the top-outs. Well, the next time you are looking for somewhere different to warm up or hone your manteling skills, check out this boulder.

Billy in the Well is on the left side and starts on high edges and climbs through slopers to a spartan finish. There is also a sit start that goes at v7, but it is pretty darn lanky.

-Raza

11-26-08: Coffee Talk

Lyn Verinsky on Coffee Talk [v3]

One last post before Thanksgiving to get everyone psyched for holiday sends.

If you wander over to the Lost Boulders to try plurality, you should also check out Coffee Talk, on a boulder just south of Plurality. Start this fun problem on two edges at head height, and climb into the arete and semi-spicy top-out. As you can see, only one pad is necessary.

Happy Thanksgiving!

-Raza

11-24-08: Orange Face

The Orange Face, located at the Bridalveil boulders, is a new line that I climbed last weekend. Monica and I cleaned it earlier in the year and originally thought it would be a moderate. Haha...after trying it for the first time I realized it was in fact going to be quite difficult. The climb is short and powerful followed by a somewhat delicate slopey topout.

Directions: From "Barrel of Laughs" just turn around and you'll see it! From "French Quarter" walk southwest about a hundred yards; it's on the south face of a really large boulder and its orange!

Enjoy!

-Junior

11-17-08: Merganser

The Common Merganser is a large sized duck that, if you are lucky, can be seen surfing the rapids along the Merced river in Yosemite Valley. It is also the name of a a new problem recently climbed by Kevin Cuckavich. The line is striking and tall. It follows the left arete but climbs more like a face problem.

To locate the problem park at the pullout for 'Highway Star' (a 5.10a traditional route) and cross the road. The problem is within spitting distance of the parking area and faces the river. The landing is flat but I'd recommend a few pads due to the height of the crux. Enjoy.


Ingar Shu on Merganser [v6]

-Justin

11-10-08: Cindy

Kevin Cuckavich savoring the slopers

AKA: 'Sydnie' or 'The Elephant's Butt Crack.' This problem was originally climbed by visiting Brit, Sean Myles on top-rope. Sean had sustained a broken leg the year prior and did not have the benefit of using a crash pad, let alone many of them. The problem has been listed in the two versions of Yosemite bouldering guides as 'Sydnie,' but the problem was not often attempted and may not have been repeated...until this October when Randy Puro re-cleaned and climbed the problem sans rope.

Randy was so excited about this problem that he contacted Sean Myles to learn a little more about the history of the problem. This is what Sean had to say:

"Cindy (I believe that was how her name was spelled) was the name of a
bartender in the Mountain Room bar back then. I guess she may still be
around. The naming story went something like this: I'd been trying the
problem and was having trouble sticking the first move where you have
to hit that slot very accurately and I was telling people that the
first move was a bitch. Later the same day I'd tried to get a drink in
the bar without an ID and Cindy had refused to serve me and was
generally, well, a bitch to me about it. So, by loose association, I
named the problem after her. Subsequently I actually told her the same
story which she took very well. I guess she was just having a bad day
that first time."

So 'Sydnie' is actually 'Cindy'[v10], so respect the first ascentionist and get it right from now on!

Cheers,

-Justin

11-9-08: Panic Room

Paul Barraza on Panic Room [v9]

Here is another great line that I realized was not on BetaBase. Last Spring Tim Medina put up a problem just west of the employee housing in Curry Village. Fun dynamic climbing leads into a slopey committing top-out. Good temperatures are key for the finish. Tim did it when the temps weren't all that great, hence the name!

To find the problem, park at the LeConte Memorial and walk towards curry. When you get to the employee housing, head up the hill into the woods and you will find the boulder.

-Raza

11-4-08: SFA

Lyn Verinsky on Scott Frye's Army [v8]

Behind such notable climbs as Hero and Zero, hides another good problem called Scott Frye's Army. It starts on a blunt arete and climbs up a spartan face in classic Yosemite style: crimpy and technical. The first move sets the tone: a desperate slap from two bad side-pull slopers to a good edge. While the hard climbing is mostly in the beginning, it never really lets up, either.

To find the problem, walk around the Hero boulder and it is hard to miss.

-Raza

11-1-08: Cookie Monster

Randy

In late August I found this line not more that 20 feet from the road. It's also not more than 20 feet from the Merced River. The rock is bullet, the landing is pretty good, and the setting is prime. I can't believe there are still unclimbed boulders like this here in Yosemite. The one drawback is that it faces due south, so I waited for cooler temperatures and a few friends to arrive before giving it a try. Kevin Cuckavich nabbed the first ascent and suggested [v6]. I did it shortly afterward using so different beta to avoid a massive reach and I thought it felt a bit harder.

If you are short you may have to do something crazy like this

Kevin topping out the first ascent

-Justin

10-24-08: Paralyzed

Noah Kaufman on Paralyzed [v9]

One last Way Lake posting to wrap up the season. Jeff Sillcox sent his amazing high-ball project on the Talladega boulder. After we rustled together as many pads as we could find, he sent the thing on his second try. The line is basically a direct start to Drunk Chicken and climbs up the gently overhanging wall through consistently small crimps.

After sending, he literally packed up and drove out East on a road trip. Nothing like sending your project at the 11th hour!

-Raza

10-21-08: A Walk in the Park

Raza on A Walk in the Park, v2 MORE PHOTOS

Scott Chandler found this cool line when we were warming up at some random boulders west of the main Cathedral Boulders. It is a thin face that has a very committing move at the end. (See right photo above.) Luckily, there is beta for people of the 5'2" persuasion to avoid the big reach.

To find the problem, hike the trail to the Cathedral Boulders but don't veer left - stay on the main Cathedral trail. You will see the problem from the trail on your right.

-Raza

10-08-08: Start of the Fall Season

Rocktober: there's so much to love about this month, but nothing beats that first day back in the Valley after a four month hiatus. The temps were fine and we spent the day on nearly all new (to us) problems to get reacquainted with Yosemite granite after spending the summer on pale imitations. Here's a few videos of some problems at Curry.


Paul Barraza on Joe's Garage [v5]

On the other side of the boulder is another fun, and in my opinion, easier, climb called The Mechanic Direct that Paul insists on calling v5.



Paul Barraza on The Mechanic Direct [v5]

After the fun at Curry, we moved on to Paul's new problem, which has a post all of its own. In the same area is a new problem that Scott Chandler, a.k.a. Junior, put up a couple weekends ago; we're guessing the grade to be in the v3 range. Since we have video of that as well, here it is:




-Lyn

10-7-08: Plurality

Paul Barraza on Plurality [v6]

My first new problem of the season is a line that I scoped out last spring, about when the mosquitoes were in full force. Junior and I tried it a couple of weekends ago but it was too warm. This last weekend was cool enough to sneak past the slopers for the FA. There is a hard man direct start to be done as well...

The problem is to the left of Cedar Crack in the Lost Boulders area of Yosemite and just to the right of "Miss Laid", a v2 on the 'v' feature. The problem starts on the bottom of the sloping rail and climbs right to the other angled wall to a rock-over move. The descent is the tree shown in the photos.

-Raza

9-30-08: Seasonal and There Goes the Neighborhood

The first two problems I've established this fall season are not difficult but are both quite fun. They add to the warm up circuit around the Bridalveil Falls area. Pictured is Seasonal [v2], to the left is There Goes the Neighborhood [v2]. Both names are inspired by a less than neighborly exchange I had recently with one of the law enforcement rangers that lives across the street from me. Anyway, there is more soon to come!

-Justin

9-29-08: Black Buddha

Lyn Verinsky on Black Buddha [v8]


Here is another cool line on the Meadow Roof boulder. While they call it v8, I really didn't think it was that hard. After all, it only took me about 100 tries!

-Raza

9-12-08: Way Lake Trip

 

Mike Madigan on Meadow Roof [v8] 

After checking out Justin's blog the other day, I saw that he climbed at an area called Way Lake near Mammoth. We headed out over the Labor Day weekend to see if the area climbed as good as it looked on the East Side Bouldering blog. Jeff Sillcox (of East Side Bouldering Blog fame) was nice enough to show us around, spot, give beta and repeat hard problems with no apparent warm up. The climb above, Meadow Roof, was put up by Tim Steele a few years ago and is one of the most classic problems at Way Lake. Steep climbing with good holds, something you don't find too often in granite areas. The rock is reminiscent of Rocky Mountain National Park and is probably gneiss as well.

 

Randy Puro on Meadow Face [v9] 

Across the 'meadow' from Meadow Roof is another Tim Steele classic, Meadow Face. The feet down low are very technical and the moves at the top are physical - culminating in a desperate throw to a decent pinch.

 

Randy Puro on Knife Dance [v7] 

We warmed up near the bottom of the talus on our first day and an obvious line that drew everyone in was Knife Dance. The climbing is probably more scary than hard, but it is pretty hard to climb when all you are thinking about is the exit strategy. Only after getting comfortable with the moves, do you realize how fun they are.

 

Jeff Sillcox on the unnamed v6 at the 1-6-9 boulder 

Off in the trees lies the 1-6-9 boulder, so named because the three problems on the boulder are rated v1, v6 & v9. The v6 doesn't have a name but should since it's so fun. Ugly Duckling [v9], to the left has a move where you finger lock and twist into a deep drop-knee - probably the first time I've ever done a move like that! Directions are a little tricky. Go past Mammoth towards Lake Mary and follow signs for Cold Stream campground - park at the trail head in the back. If you have Google Earth, click HERE to see where Meadow Roof is. 

 -Raza

9-5-08: Little Blue Anastasia

Lyn Verinsky on Little Blue Anastasia [v8]

Here is a problem that I can't believe I haven't put on BetaBase yet. This is a classic problem put up by Randy Puro way back in the spring of 2005. The area is known as the Indian Caves and this arete is the highlight of the three aretes (The Misfit is to the right) that face half dome. I think it is classic because it exemplifies the uber-technical climbing that Yosemite demands.

To find this problem, park at the Ahwahnee's and hike towards half dome until you get to a big open area and the trail starts to head toward Mirror Meadow. At that point it will on your left right in front of the Indian Caves. Or just check out the guidebook!

-Raza

8-24-08: OK Corral

Raza on OK Corral [v10]

We just got back from our trip to Squamish and it will be September in a few days... Can you feel the redpoint breeze just around the corner? Yes, fall will be here soon so the posts should be more frequent to get everyone psyched!

But back to the boulder problem, OK Corral is located just to the right of Tombstone. This fun, dynamic problem starts on two head-height slopers at the bottom of a dihedral. I'm not sure about the grade, but everyone agrees that it's pretty darn cool!

-Raza

8-16-08: Dogwood

Randy on Dogwood, v12

Well, I guess you could say that the "the cat is out of the bag" in regards to Dogwood (Sorry I couldn't resist!) It was one of the problems featured on Josh Lowell's new film Dosage 5. There was a short featurette about valley bouldering that seems just slightly off the mark. But maybe that is just what it always seems like when you see a dose about your 'home' area.

Anyway, this awesome problem is at the Woodyard, easily seen from the road and so easy to get to a drunken driver could easily run right into the boulder! This blunt arete starts on an obvious jug rail and climbs sidepulls to an intimidating headwall. The last move is a desperate dyno to the lip where you have to slot your pinkie in the finish jug - just right.

-Raza

6-8-08: Live and Let Die & You Only Live Twice

On the eastern edge of Curry village uphill from the tent cabins lies an incredible boulder with two stellar problems on it. The problems start on a steep face; one on the left, one on the right. The left and right lines share the same tall and committing top-out but both are still unique and equally fun. The right line, You Only Live Twice, was the first to go and is probably a v8. The day I sent it, it was quite dreary and started to rain as I was topping out. Needless to say the down climb was not much of a down climb at all but rather a slip n' slide. Don't worry though, when its dry the down climb is a piece of cake. I came back a few days later and climbed the left problem, Live and Let Die, which is a bit harder making it v9.

To find the boulder, park at the eastern end of the Curry Village parking lot and hike straight uphill a couple hundred yards. You will pass several large boulders on the way up. The problems are located on the east side of the boulder between two trees. Sorry for the lack of better directions; GPS coordinates coming soon.


Raza sending You Only Live Twice [v8].


Scott with the FA of Live and Let Die [v9].

Cheers!
-Scott C.

6-5-08: Tombstone

Courtney on Tombstone [v9]

There has been a lot of development around the woodyard this spring. One of the original projects that helped start the development surge was found by Scott Frye in the spring of '07. He thought it would only be v5, but it rebuffed all attempts until Randy Puro got the FA in the late fall of that year.

The Tombstone boulder is located up the hill from the main woodyard boulder. There is an old road that you hike up and the boulder is on your left. Start the problem in a dihedral and climb up and right through crimps to an exciting topout.

-Raza

5-5-08: French Quarter

Brian Hedrick with the FA of French Quarter [v7?].


Scott Chandler sticking the crux move.


Last year while exploring around the Bridalveil Falls area, I stumbled across an incredible boulder. It was not until this spring (just a couple of weeks ago) that I actually got around to inspecting it further and cleaning off the holds. The boulder is probably close to 30 feet tall, although the second half of the problem is very easy climbing. Here's how it goes down: Stand on a rock under the roof and start on a blocky jug. Climb up to a sloper on the arete, grab another sloper and throw for a crimp out on the face. Proceed to the top without falling. Brian Hedrick nabbed the FA and dubbed it French Quarter and we both thought v7 was a fair estimate for a grade. The approach is fairly simple: From the main Bridalveil boulder (the really big one near the parking lot) walk up the hill on a climber's trail. When the trail starts to flatten a little you'll see a large decomposing tree on the ground to your left. Walk along the tree and you'll see the boulder straight ahead. Bring your pads for this one and have fun!

4-28-08: Cougar

Sunday's search for cooler temps and more moderate climbing found us at the Curry boulders. A fun day of climbing some classics and scrubbing new problems culminated in Randy's awesome send of a listed "project" in the Yos Bouldering Guide. Whether a first ascent or not, it was the proverbial cherry atop the ice cream sunday we talked about incessantly, but never stopped climbing long enough to get. Oh yeah, for those who want to know, I forgot to ask Randy how hard it was, so no v-grade yet.



This problem is located on the Zorro boulder. Same start, but a lot more direct.
-Lyn

4-28-08: Woodchuck

Lyn on Woodchuck [v5?]


It's getting scary up here!

As if there weren't already enough reasons to start heading out to the Woodyard, Woodchuck, an excellent problem put up by climbing legend, Scott Frye, in the spring of '07, gives you yet more incentive. This devious and technical line is seriously committing at the top. More terrifying than difficult, it's all about finding the balance using fairly poor holds. It seems to be the inverse of Lumberjack, with the power moves low and the techy stuff up top. And since it was cleaned by the maestro himself, you won't feel like you're pimping moss. Give Scott a round of applause!

To the left of this problem, is another excellent Scott Frye creation: Sliver [v3]. Yes, it follows the trend on this boulder by being tall and scary, but topping out is sweet satisfaction. Start on a higher sidepull/rail feature, go left and then follow small crimps up right to an exciting slab finish. And for those who crank out v12, think of all of these climbs as a great warm up to the best line of them all: Dogwood. But more on that later.

-Lyn

4-28-08: Dream

Noah Kaufman on Dream v10


Noah sticking the money move

How many times did I warm up at the Sentinel boulders, look at this problem and think to myself, "maybe I COULD use those crimps". After a handful of futile attempts, I would shake my head and walk away. Well, early last fall Noah caught sight of this line and didn't fool around with no stinking crimps. He took the big and powerful path, making the probable first ascent of a problem often contemplated, but to my knowledge, never completed. Dream was climbed for a second ascent (?) by Steve de Lucca a mere ten days ago.

-Lyn

4-27-08: Chicken Nugget

Untitled from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Raza doing the second ascent of Chicken Nugget [v7?].

I saw this line a few of weeks ago out at the woodyard and the following weekend Paul and I went back to check it out again. We figured out the beta and both managed to send it. Its a fun problem with a large move and a top-out that lacks any decent holds. To find the boulder from the main woodyard boulder: Walk up an old road/path that heads uphill for a couple hundred yards...you will see the boulder after a few minutes on your right. Chicken Nugget starts to the right of a tree (on the downhill eastern side of the boulder) and climbs up to the nugget hold and on to the slopey top-out. Enjoy!

ps- if you click on here you can see the video in a larger format with better resolution.

-Scott

4-17-08: Wall to Wall Carpet

Paul Barraza on Wall to Wall Carpet [v9?]

It's getting warmer these days so the other day we sought refuge by warming up at the main Bridalveil boulder. The guidebook lists many projects on the boulder and we got interested in a line facing the parking lot - but one that didn't quite match any of the described projects in the book. The bottom had obviously been tried but the top was very dirty. I managed to pull out the first ascent after discovering a decent edge out left. The rest is history.

To find the problem, park at the main Bridalveil Falls parking lot and hike to the big obvious boulder that you can see for the bathrooms. Wall to Wall Carpet is facing the parking lot.

-Raza

3-13-08: Retrofit & others

Another two problems that were discovered, cleaned and climbed in short order are located on an unnamed boulder about 100 meters up from the Bridalveil Falls parking lot. Their discovery begs the question, "how many climbs have been found while searching for a good place to pee?" The first problem to go down sit starts in the obvious dihedral and climbs right with much awkwardness onto positive holds. Not to sound like sour grapes (since I was never able to escape out of the damn dihedral), but folks with a good arm span have a SERIOUS advantage here. In all fairness, tall folks in our group still used a tiny and rather heinously sharp crimp to gain the better holds out right, so it isn't all sunshine and roses being 5'10" and up on this problem. Paul named this line "Escape from Alcatraz" and Scott suggested a grade of v4, which besides hurting my ego, seems a bit sandbagged. Here's a video of Scott making it look at least v5.




The arete to the left is the problem that actually drew us to the boulder in the first place. The line is aesthetic and there are some obvious start holds. The one drawback is the tree directly to the left of the start, but by careful body placement, it doesn't get in the way too much nor pose a hazard in the fall. Here's a video of Paul on the attempt before his send. The move that he falls on appears to be the crux. The grade for "Retrofit" is in the ballpark of v7.

3-12-08: Hero & Others

Randy Puro on Hero, v8

What a great weekend! Several new problems were established, the weather was beautiful and everyone in the crew finished a problem they'd never climbed before. One excellent new line that was done by Paul and Randy is called "Hero" from the sit and "Crouching Spotter, Hidden Sloper" from the stand. Located in the shadow of El Cap, this climb tackles a cool arete that has surprisingly fun and powerful moves. The crux involves a poor right hand sloper and a tenuous move to a left hand jug. Randy makes the crux look easy in the video, but there was plenty of blowing off the top. The SDS tacks on only a few moves, but manages to add considerably to the burn at the crux. Possible grades are v7 for the stand and v8 for the sit.


Randy Puro on Jet Li, v6

On Sunday, we ended up at the Bruce Lee boulder spotting Randy on a very inspiring send of Jackie Chan. It was the first time I'd ever seen anyone get established on that problem, much less do any moves. The surprises didn't end there, though. Just to the right of Bruce Lee is another problem that I had never noticed before, perhaps given the lack of any discernible holds. Jet Li is an excellent, albeit sharp, climb that starts on the slab on the right side of the Bruce Lee arete and ends on Bruce Lee. The start is the crux for both tall and short due to a dirth of good feet and the high top adds a little spice to the end. Here's another video of Randy (it's a good thing he's so photogenic) sending the problem.

-Lyn

1-18-08: Sent Arete

Lily Nguyen climbing Sent Arete [v3].



Scott Chandler climbing Sent Arete [v3].


I found this fun problem about a year ago while I was wandering around the Sentinel area. The moves are really fun and the holds are cool. To find it, simply walk up the main path from the warm ups for a couple of minutes. You will pass a 5.9R arete on your left. Continue on the path for just a bit longer and the Sent Arete will be off in the trees on the right side. It has since been cleaned more, so dont let all the moss seen in the photos scare you off! Enjoy!

P.S. Also, while you are there check out the thin face to the left, which Raza climbed last spring.

-Scott