Thursday, October 26, 2006
Tim Medina on Flatline [v9]
The first thing I thought of when I saw the line that would eventually become Flatline was, "Holy crap!" The line is tall, proud and a tad clenchy. We weren't quite sure if it would even go because the top section looked pretty thin. Tim found a sequence for the upper section and he got the FA of the problem this last spring - with only one spotter!
The problem is on the same boulder as Lifeline, adjacent to the Athletes Die Young boulder near the LeConte Memorial. Start on the thin crimps and work your way up to the 'nose' feature in the dihedral. Finish up and right on the technical face, which is probably v5/6 in it's own right. If you want to do the scariest v6 in the valley you can start to the right on underclings and climb your way into the finish of Lifeline. That start is called Heart Attack. Hmm....
Friday, October 06, 2006
Scott Frye on House of Glass [v3]
With a name like that, you would think that the whole thing is ready to fall down. Contrary to what you might think, this problem isn't going anywhere. It's another one of those improbable looking faces that are easier than they look. When Scott and Lyn were first trying to figure out the beta it seemed pretty darn hard. Once they figured out the beta, it was like the bubble popped and then it was like: Oh, this is only v3!
To get to this technical & crimpy face, walk up towards Bruce Lee and it will be on your right. It is actually just up the hill from All Hands on Deck. If you look back at the photos you can see the House of Glass boulder in the background. Start standing with some small crystally crimps and head up to a 'U' shaped bucket and then up and right to the top.