Sunday, June 08, 2008

6-8-08: Live and Let Die & You Only Live Twice

On the eastern edge of Curry village uphill from the tent cabins lies an incredible boulder with two stellar problems on it. The problems start on a steep face; one on the left, one on the right. The left and right lines share the same tall and committing top-out but both are still unique and equally fun. The right line, You Only Live Twice, was the first to go and is probably a v8. The day I sent it, it was quite dreary and started to rain as I was topping out. Needless to say the down climb was not much of a down climb at all but rather a slip n' slide. Don't worry though, when its dry the down climb is a piece of cake. I came back a few days later and climbed the left problem, Live and Let Die, which is a bit harder making it v9.

To find the boulder, park at the eastern end of the Curry Village parking lot and hike straight uphill a couple hundred yards. You will pass several large boulders on the way up. The problems are located on the east side of the boulder between two trees. Sorry for the lack of better directions; GPS coordinates coming soon.

Raza sending You Only Live Twice [v8].

Scott with the FA of Live and Let Die [v9].

-Scott C.

Thursday, June 05, 2008

6-5-08: Tombstone

Courtney on Tombstone [v9]

There has been a lot of development around the woodyard this spring. One of the original projects that helped start the development surge was found by Scott Frye in the spring of '07. He thought it would only be v5, but it rebuffed all attempts until Randy Puro got the FA in the late fall of that year.

The Tombstone boulder is located up the hill from the main woodyard boulder. There is an old road that you hike up and the boulder is on your left. Start the problem in a dihedral and climb up and right through crimps to an exciting topout.