Monday, April 30, 2007

5-7-07: Bonobo Hello

Scott Chandler swinging like an ape on Bonobo Hello [v7/8]

This would be a boulder problem that you would file under "incredible lone boulder". Located between the the John Muir trail head parking and Glacier Point, this boulder problem leaves you wondering how it ended up here all by itself.

Bonobo Hello starts on two good hold under the lip and heads straight for a triangular jug. After some ape-like swinging, good holds and a very slopey top-out await. Another variation (called Pimp Chimp) starts at the good hold on the face that is down and right of the triangle hold (behind the tree in the picture) and goes at around v5.

To get to the problem, park as close as you can to Glacier Point Apron in the John Muir trail head parking lot. Head straight towards the apron and you can't miss the problem. This area, incidentally, is also where the Fire Falls used to land.


5-1-07: Holy Crap! (King Air)

Lyn looking at King Air, v10

The first thing most people say when they realize that someone has bouldered the line is: Holy Crap! The word has it that on April 21st, Dean Potter got the FA of a tall & scary line on the LeConte boulder. We were climbing near by and saw the crash pads set up and later found out from Tommy that he had done it that day.

Guessing from the chalk and tick marks, the line starts to the right of Lyn on a shelf and climbs up and left, finishing up pretty much right above Lyn's head (just a little to the left.) He called it King Air and I believe graded it v10, but you can correct me on that.


P.S. There are two aid climbs (bolt ladders) that people learn to aid on. This boulder problem is TALLER than both of them!