Thursday, August 04, 2011

8-4-11: Back to the Future

Tim Medina on Notta Traverse [v7]

Way back in 2005, Andres Mueller told me about a cool new boulder near the Saddle Boulder in Tahoe. He had done a cool problem called Back to the Future, v9 and said there was much more potential, hence the name: The Future Boulder. I checked it out and soon showed Scott Frye and Tim Medina, who did much of the development.

To get to the Future Boulder, drive through the tunnels as you would to get to the Saddle Boulders. After you get through the tunnels, there will be a road off to the left. Sometimes the road is blocked by boulders after a few hundred feet so you may have to park right there but you might be able to drive down to the boulder. Either way you get there, go down the road and the boulder will be on your left just before a wood bridge. The boulder is hard to see from the road, but it is there.

1. Warm up, v0
2. Notta Warm Up, v2/3 Sit start to the warm up.
3. Notta Traverse, v7 Start at the right side of the large shelf and follow the crack system left.
4. Blast from the Past, v3 Climbs center of the face, high and committing
5. Slippery Slope, v6 The crux is getting established on the slippery slope...
6. Super Slippery Slope, v8 Start as for Back to the Future and climbing into Slippery Slope.
7. Back to the Future, v9 Start of left side of big shelf, climb up and right to a good shelf.

Daniel Soto eating the cookie. He was the inspiration for Marley Marathon

8. Super Crimper Roof, v? Project
9. Name Unknown, v9 Start on shelf and finish at the lip, really cool moves.
10. Direct Finish Project, v? The slab finish to #9, will be a mega classic.
11. Lucky Charms, v10 Start on #9, go right at the lip and finish on Marley Marathon.
12. Marley Marathon, v5 Start sitting on a shelf, climb up diehedral and surmount bulge.