Friday, October 22, 2010

10-22-10: Four from the Valley

Short video by Scott Chandler from his recent trip to the valley

Here is a list of the problems in the video:

Hammerhead, v5 @ Camp 4: committing top with a bad landing, bring pads and spotters (and a good head).

A Walk in the Park, v2 @ Cathedral: Another highball with a committing topout!

Quasimodo, v7 @ Cathedral: A new line that Scott just put up on the rim trail just west of the Cathedral boulder turn off. A tad reachy, but definitely an instant classic.

Unnamed, v9? @ Cathedral: An unnamed line with the same start as ladder detail, but head out right and then back left at the lip. Never heard a name or a grade, but it is probably about v9ish. Anyone know the name, or have any ideas for a good name??

Thanks for the video Scott!


Friday, October 08, 2010

10-8-10: Mirror Lake

Colton working a short-lived project (Sweat Lodge)

Last June, valley local Colton Lindeman was nice enough to tour Scott Chandler and myself around some boulders he had been developing. The Mirror Lake boulders are a new area with plenty of potential. Here are some pics from our tour:

The warm up boulder

Colton on a cool arete Hobbit [v3]

Colton on the highball arete Dead or Alive [v8]

Scott on the FA of a new line (Sweat Lodge)

Colton on a short and steep v6, one of the few problems that was established before his development.

Colton trying a project close to Mirror Lake.

To get to the Mirror Lake Boulders, park at the stables and hike out the paved road. Turn left at the fork in the road and turn right after 100 feet or so. That will take you to the warm up boulder. The rest of the boulders are all behind that, but because everything is so jumbled, it is impossible to give precise directions. Just go and have have fun exploring!


Thursday, May 20, 2010

5-20-10: Cilley

Theo Merrin climbing Cilley [v10]

Here is another not-so-hidden gem, this time at the Ahwahnee Boulders. This one is on the main Ahwahnee boulder only about 10 feet from the parking lot, so don't worry about hiring Sherpas. Sit start on a obvious rail and climb through intense moves all the way through the top-out. Surmounting the lip is harder than it looks, so don't let down your guard!

Theo Merrin from Colorado climbs Cilley in this video and I was super psyched to shoot him sending all the classics on a recent trip. More to come!


Wednesday, April 28, 2010

4-28-10: Seams So

Theo Merrin climbing Seams So [v8] at the Sentinel Boulders

As important as the Merced River Plan is, it is time for a new post. Some of you might be be wondering about the lack of updates recently. I dropped my camera off at a repair shop in October, and the owner skipped town/fell off the face of the earth shortly thereafter. After 6 months of trying to get my camera back, Lyn was nice enough to get me a new one for my birthday. Thanks Lyn!!

Seams So is an obscure problem on the B1 Boulder in the Sentinel Boulders. I hadn't given it much though until recently because I initially thought it finished straight up the scary slab. It turns out that it traverses to the right arete, a much saner option. So if you have already done No Holds Bard and Slapshot, give this one a try.


Friday, January 29, 2010

01-29-10: Merced River Plan

Have you or your friends ever enjoyed a good day of climbing in Yosemite? If you ever have, I strongly encourage you to take action. See below:

We need your help to influence the latest Merced River Plan, which could restrict climbing access and camping in Yosemite Valley, depending on how the Park prepares its new revised user capacity program. At issue is access to iconic climbs including those found on The Rostrum, Cookie Cliff, and Middle Cathedral Rock (everything ¼ mile on either side of the river). This plan will also affect all travel through the management area to locations just outside the river corridor, which brings into play all climbing in Yosemite Valley including El Capitan and even Half Dome. Another consequence of this litigation is the increased likelihood that camping will become even more scarce while the number of lodging units remains largely unchanged.

Please write Yosemite National Park by February 4 and support the preservation of climbing access in the Valley! With our easy-to-use letter writing tool, it only takes two minutes to make your voice heard.

Thanks for your support,

Your Friends at the Access Fund

Friday, January 22, 2010

1-16-10: Kumba

Scott Chandler climbing Kumba, v9/10 @ Camp 4
For all you slab lovers, this post is for you. Word on the street is that Dean Potter originally climbed Kumba and called it v8. After many years, a few other climbers repeated it, and in the process the climb was upgraded to v11. Recently, Randy, Paul, and I managed to make it to the top of this gem and while I am skeptical of the v11 grade, it is truly hard in that it requires the utmost in technique, balance, and 100% trust in your feet.

This amazing slab faces up-valley on the energy boulder in camp 4 and can be found by walking up the falls trail; go slightly past "king cobra" then head left. Bring your best shoes and a few pads because the last move is a committing dyno. Enjoy!