3-16-09: Two Bolts or Not to Be

Randy Puro on Two Bolts or Not to Be [v10]

There are a few lines in the valley that we have found that would be under the "maybe someday" category. A line that you think about, but seems too out of reach to actually drag a crew down to try. Two Sundays agoand two years after first cleaning and scoping the line, we headed down to attempt to boulder a short Ron Kauk route down by the highway 140 entrance. I believe he did the first ascent in the mid-nineties, long before the era of big pads, but exact details are unclear.

The first part of the climb is a very technical arete which leads into a steep roof, the crux being sticking a dyno to a sloper and crossing to a good pinch. The last move wouldn't be very hard if the move was a few feet off the ground, but becomes very committing when when you have to heel hook at hand height (making you totally horizontal). At that point your back is about 18 feet above the pads.

The climb was still a little wet from the melting snow, but Randy stuck with it and by the end of the day it had pretty much dried out. More impressive, his heel flew out at the crux and he took a screamer of a fall, but he kept trying, culminating with the send captured above.

-Raza

3-5-07: Heart of Darkness

Randy on Heart of Darkness [v9]

This isn't the greatest photo, but it was from the night that the problem went up. At the end of an already fun climbing day we headed down to try a problem that Matt Wilder and Noah Kaufman had cleaned. They were really excited about the climb and it was easy to see why: just enough holds on a gently overhanging wall.

The most amazing part is that it was right off the road down past the 140/120 junction. How was it possible that every boulderer that ever drove down 140 could have missed this obvious gem? After a while of while of figuring out the beta by lantern and headlamps I managed to get the FA with a key slopey backstep.

To find the problem, head down just past the 120/140 junction. Park at the first pull out on the left. Walk back up the road about 100 feet and the problem will be on your left.

-Raza

2-8-05: Across the Tracks

Raza on the FA of Across the Tracks [v10]
photo: Lyn Verinsky

This is a great problem that I put up down at the "140 Boulders" (near the 140 entrance to Yosemite). It's hard to see from this picture, but it's really steep, and the holds are pretty good. It is not very often to find a problem like this in the valley. It's probably V9 or V10 but I'd love to know what you guys think.

To find the problem from the 120/140 junction, head down the valley towards El Portal. You'll cross a bridge and pass a parking lot where people look at some falls. Just after that there is a pull out on the right. Pull out there and park at the very end of the pull out. From there walk right into the trees and you'll see the roof hidden there. Start on a left facing jug with you feet low on an angled block, jump right to a sloper and you're on your way. Good luck!

Check it out on Google Earth HERE.

-Raza