Friday, November 18, 2011

Merced River Plan: Update

Merced River & El Cap

Climbers interested in Yosemite issues should take a look at the MRP workbook and get your comments in by DECEMBER 14th (it was recently pushed back from November 30th). The Access Fund's positions on appropriate MRP planning alternatives are as follows:
  • Yosemite planners should work to reverse lodging/camping ratio (currently 60/40) to provide more camping and less emphasis on lodging (move lodging to the park boundaries). Providing more camping in the Park, and limiting lodging in the park to rustic/primitive accommodations, is consistent with the NPS's own management policies that promote visitors having a direct relationship to Park resources. Adjusting this ratio would also be more consistent with a national park instead of the luxury resort or amusement park that Yosemite often resembles.
  • Park planners should include in the MRP the several "improvements" for Camp 4 that were contemplated in Lodge Redevelopment Plan (which was stalled by the MRP litigation). These improvements include showers, fencing to encourage vegetation, limited loud bus noise, foul weather cooking pavilion and communal fire, and a nearby location for Ken Yager's Yosemite climbing museum. In addition to focusing on more camping in the Park, planners should also improve the quality of the camping experience, especially at locations such as Camp 4 where climbers are forced into highly dense and low-quality campsites. Planners should recognize the historic importance of this campground and improve some of the basic amenities such as the bathrooms.
  • Yosemite planners should restore as much camping as possible to sites that have already been disturbed such as the Pine and Oak lodging units and the Rivers Campground that were destroyed in the 1997 flood. These areas in particular could be engineered with the recognition that they will again be flooded. Plan maps should indicate flood plain areas where shallow flood depths and low water velocities make the development of campsites feasible. Planners should establish diversity of camping opportunities (including walk-in, walk-to, and a "drop-off" your gear but walk-in model) and not just limit opportunities to drive-in campgrounds (where RV generators, for example, impact the experience) or the ghetto at Camp 4. The Park should bring campsite numbers at least back to pre-flood totals as contemplated in Yosemite's General Management Plan (there's currently a shortfall of 300 campsites), but any new sites should be focused on placement in the East Valley so that the largely undisturbed areas west of Camp 4 don't also suffer from campfire smoke and new infrastructure.
  • The Park should ensure climbing needs are addressed in the MRP, particularly parking locations throughout Valley and the Merced Gorge segment (Cookie Cliff, Arch Rock, etc.).
  • Park planners should ensure that measures to restore or harden El Cap Meadow are not unsightly from above. The MRP should consider hybrid approach for boardwalk further west of typical climber use areas, and use fencing and other ways to focus people onto a few discrete paths into Meadow. The MRP should ensure that climbers can continue their traditional use of the Meadow.
  • Park planners should ensure that there is adequate day use parking while pursuing a range of transit strategies to reduce auto use in the Valley.
  • The Plan should include a noise control element that addresses noise sources such as idling tour buses, motorcycles, trash collection, RV generators, the Green Dragon touring flatbeds and others.

I'm still working on a "voter's guide" the the workbook. Look for that in a bit...


Monday, November 14, 2011

Merced River Plan: NPS wants your feedback

In case you haven't heard, the National Park service has been working on the Merced River Plan for many years now. They have been sued and had to rework the plan TWICE. If they don't succeed this time it is likely that congress will get involved and legislate a plan and nobody thinks that would be a good idea.

I am currently looking over the pdf workbook to come up with some "talking points" that should be included to support and enhance bouldering in Yosemite Valley. Hopefully, I'll have something in a week or so. Check out the links below if you want to get started. THE DEADLINE FOR FEEDBACK IS NOVEMBER 30TH.

This is the NPS link for information:

This is the link to the workbook:

Looking for other ways to help? Here is a short list:
  • Look over the workbook and post suggestions of good ideas on BetaBase
  • Encourage friends and family to do the same
  • Spread the word on facebook / twitter / climbing blogs / etc.
  • Join the Access Fund
  • Donate to the Yosemite Climber's Association


Monday, November 07, 2011

11-7-11: Post Send Depression

Paul Barraza on Post Send Depression [v7]

Here is a problem that was hidden in plain sight. Located on the B1 boulder at Sentinel just between the Jungle Book and the down climb. Perhaps the two-tiered landing was a deterrent, but with the right pad setup, it is pretty safe.

The problem climbs up a faint dihedral using an unusual assortment of holds. The only downward facing holds are at the top, and they are unnervingly slopey. (hence my fear scream at the top - doh). I'll be honest, the rock is not the best, but once this thing cleans up it could possibly be a classic? Bring a bunch of pads and decide for yourself!


Sunday, November 06, 2011

11-6-11: Riverside Rock Update

Justin Alarcon on Budōkan [v9] at Riverside Rock

We checked out Riverside Rock a few weeks back and I thought an update would be appropriate. Thanks again to Ryan Alonzo for sending in the information that was used to create a previous post.
All the problems on the east face of this boulder are really fun. (We didn't try the problems on the other side) The climbing holds are bigger than average and the wall is steeper than average, making for some fun, gymnastic climbing. I would recommend stopping there on the way home some day, as it is right off the road.

For those of us who climbed there, we thought the grades were a little off, compared to the rest of the valley. Here are the grades from our limited consensus:

Karate: v8
7up: v5
Capoeria: v5
Balance of Opposites: v6

Budōkan: v9 (Justin added the sit start to Karate)

I contacted Jacob Copeland, a longtime valley developer and it turns out he climbed all the lines a few years back!! He didn't name anything and thought the names that Justin and Ryan came up with were great. He also said that he put up a sit start to 7up - though I have a hard time visualizing how the sit start would link into that problem.