Wednesday, February 16, 2005

2-16-05: Where are these?

Courtney found some videos of some cool looking problems in Tahoe at She was asking me if I knew what they were but I had no idea. Give them a look see and try and figure it out.

There are a ton of videos on this site if you want to browse around:

Tuesday, February 15, 2005

2-15-05: Castle Boulder

<<UPDATE: 9-10-07>>

Here is a more detailed description of the problems at The Castle:

1. Downclimb, v2
2. Crispy Chicken, v3
3. What's in Store?, v4
4. The Crack, v1
Slappy McSlaperson
, v5 (aka Ghetto Booty)

5. Slappy McSlaperson, v5 (aka Ghetto Booty)
6. Unknown name, v2
7. Thief in the Night, v7
8. Unknown name, v5

9. Bunny Funeral, v8
10. Defenestration, v9
11. Come on Tex, v5

12. project, v 'damn hard'
13. Pit & the Pendulum, v8
14. project, v 'silly hard'

15. Medina Mantel, v3
16. Trojan Horse, v5
17. Squirrel Run, v9
18. Trojan Horse Direct, v6
19. Air Trojan, v8
20. Flying Squirrel (project), v10?
21. Spicy Chicken, v6r
22. Spicy, v4

Again, y
ou can check it out on Google Earth by clicking HERE.

Take Cabin Creek Rd. (off of 89) toward the dump. Take the first obvious dirt road on the left. Head right and go about a mile to another obvious left. Go straight for 3 miles until you see the Castle Boulder on the left. It will be soon after a big water bar in the road.


Original Post:

Raza on what was to become "Defenestration" [v9]
photo: Lyn Verinsky

Tim found the Castle Boulder and he and Scott cleaned and did all the hard work. I managed to snake in right at the end and nab the FA of "Defenestration", but only after whimpering and falling off the stand-up version many times. After Tim cruised the stand-up (Bunny Funeral), he inspired me to go for it. It ended up not being too bad. Thanks Tim.

Finding the Castle Boulder is not that easy. If you drive by the dump off of highway 89, that will get you started and to be honest I'm not exactly sure of the L/R directions. The GPS coordinates are:

[N 39º 17.266 W 120º 15.654]

You can check it out on Google Earth by clicking HERE.


Monday, February 14, 2005

2-14-05: Two Boulders in Tahoe

There are two problems on this face.

Lyn on her problem.

These boulders are right off of old US 40.

Saturday, February 12, 2005

2-12-05: Evil Arete

Lyn on the "Evil Arete" [v6]

This classic is actually right next to the Ishmael Boulder. I looked at it a bunch of times but the only part visible from Ishmael is pretty pathetic looking. Finally, I wandered down to check it out and with a bit of imagination discovered the "Evil Arete." The name derives from the fact that the problem is damn tricky and can drive you to fits. Probably about V5, but you won't agree until you send it. Great slopers and horrible feet. Yum!

Friday, February 11, 2005

2-11-05: Wooden Cobra Boulder

The Wooden Cobra Boulder (& Fuji)

Raza on the FA of "Bomb Threat" [v9]
photo: Lyn Verinsky

Daniel on "Sneaky Fox Cobra" [v7]

When Lyn and I found the Wooden Cobra Boulder, we knew immediately that we had a gem. But you never know how good the problems will be. After cleaning the boulder and doing some of the easier lines, we went to Squamish for two weeks. I must admit that I was eager to get back to the Wooden Cobra boulder. We actually left Squamish early because it was raining so much and we spent a couple of days at the Wooden Cobra boulder. That's when did some more lines, including "Tin Can Alley", a cool problem probably about V7/8. I'm more than happy to show anyone this boulder when the snows recede.

Lyn on The Groovenator [v4]

6-5-07 UPDATE:

The GPS coordinates are N 39º 17.042' W 120º 17.679'. The boulder in SW of Coldstream Canyon and you would need a high clearance vehicle. There is an obvious big pull out to park at that used to be a logging staging area. If you have google earth, you can check it out by clicking HERE.


Thursday, February 10, 2005

2-10-05: Death March Boulders

Ingar on the "Death March" project

Up past the Wooden Cobra boulder lies a high alpine cliff band that actually has some sport and trad climbs on it. More important for me is that that the base has some good size boulders. The hike though, is a good half hour past the Wooden Cobra boulder, hence the name "Death March Boulders." This steep face is a real gem the neither Ingar or I could do. Thin crimps on a deceptively overhanging face. Anyone up for a hike?

Wednesday, February 09, 2005

2-9-05: Railroad Boulder

Railroad Boulder

This is a cool boulder that Lyn and I found this last summer. It's got two stellar lines on the over-hanging face. Both probably V5 or V6. It might be hard to tell but the boulder is pretty tall. The top lip is probably about 18 feet up. Trains come by once and a while and all the engineers seemed pretty friendly; waiving and saying "hello"

Tuesday, February 08, 2005

2-8-05: Across the Tracks

Raza on the FA of Across the Tracks [v10]
photo: Lyn Verinsky

This is a great problem that I put up down at the "140 Boulders" (near the 140 entrance to Yosemite). It's hard to see from this picture, but it's really steep, and the holds are pretty good. It is not very often to find a problem like this in the valley. It's probably V9 or V10 but I'd love to know what you guys think.

To find the problem from the 120/140 junction, head down the valley towards El Portal. You'll cross a bridge and pass a parking lot where people look at some falls. Just after that there is a pull out on the right. Pull out there and park at the very end of the pull out. From there walk right into the trees and you'll see the roof hidden there. Start on a left facing jug with you feet low on an angled block, jump right to a sloper and you're on your way. Good luck!

Check it out on Google Earth HERE.


Monday, February 07, 2005

2-7-05: Beta for Bay Area Bouldering

This is my first post but I don't have anything to show yet. My goal is to use this blog for semi-periodic (how's that for vague) photos and info about the new bouldering being discovered. Or maybe it will be just cool photos. We'll see.

Please email me if you have any questions!
pb_raza 'at'