Wednesday, October 31, 2007

10-31-07: Shiver Me Timbers

Lyn Verinsky on Shiver Me Timbers [v6]

Last spring, Lyn sent the classic Camp 4 boulder problem Shiver Me Timbers. It's a little reachy for shorter folks, but Lyn managed to send anyway. After doing the tricky face an easy mantel leads to the commiting slab top-out. It's not uncommon to see people hanging out on the juggy foot for 5 minutes to build up their courage. Lyn hiked the final slab in her usual style, another classic in the bag.


P.S. Happy Halloween

Sunday, October 28, 2007

10-28-07 Jacob's Ladder

Mike Madigan on Jacob's Ladder [v6?]

Check out this great problem put up last year by Jacob (from Fresno). It is located just up the hill from the Titanic boulder in Camp 4. We initially started the climb on the lower of the two big rails (they are right of Rebekah's right heel), but later discovered that Jacob originally climbed the problem from a lower rail that we were using for our feet! There is also a cool right-hand undercling start that is a lot of fun. The excellent steep moves coupled with an incredibly fun rock-over mantel make this problem a must-try. Below you can see Rebekah working out the tricky heel hook move. Don't be put off by the slightly dirty slab topout.

Rebekah Taggart on Jacob's Ladder [v6?]


Friday, October 26, 2007

10-26-07: Motorcade

Motorcade - Raza [v9] by tmedina
Raza on Motorcade [v9]

Another notable send came Saturday when Paul climbed Motorcade. Paul found this gem last year so getting to the summit has been a long time coming. The three angled rails make for some great slopper pulling with a thrilling mantel at the top. Good work Raza!

More can be found on this climb below:


Tuesday, October 23, 2007

10-23-07: The Fall Classic

Alan Moore cheers on John Vallejo as he sends The Fall Classic [v4]

Another new line up at Happy Isles. I'd walked past this many times and never really gave it a second look. For some reason when I was up there on Friday it caught my eye, and a good thing too. This problem begins on two pinches under the small roof. I campused the first move to a pair of good edges, but you could probably hike your foot up really high to start if that's more your style. The rest is pretty obvious. My first sports obsession was baseball and now is the time of year Major League Baseball holds its World Series, otherwise known as the Fall Classic. It just seemed to fit.


Monday, October 22, 2007

10-22-07: Prowess

Lyn on Prowess [v7]

I thought everyone would enjoy this. Lyn nabbed her first send of Prowess Saturday night, that's right in the dark! The top out is super sketchy when there is light so I can only imagine how scared she must have felt in the dark. Reverse isn't an option when Lyn is climbing. Listen to the audio at the end for some good entertainment.
It was awesome.

- TM

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

10-16-07: Midnight Lighting

Mike on Midnight Lighting [v8]

Paul had a dream that Mike would send Midnight Lighting and Thriller in one day. Thriller didn’t go down but Midnight Lighting did in great style. Here is a video of Mike bagging the classic for the first time.

- TM

Sunday, October 14, 2007

10-14-07: Atom Smasher

Raza on Atom Smasher [v2]

It had to be something big for my first post here on BetaBase. Fortunately, I had the perfect problem in mind. On September 20th, following a day of light rain I was excited to head up to Happy Isles to try some projects I had cleaned a few days earlier. Unfortunately, nearly everything was still wet...except for the tallest thing there. Truthfully, it was still a bit damp, but I was antsy I did not want to wait. It is probably only V2 or so, but the crux is the last move so bring some gusto and a big crash pad. Here is Paul contemplating the last move.


Raza topping out Atom Smasher [v2]

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

10-10-07: Castle Dyno

Raza on a fun dyno at the Castle Boulder

I'm mainly putting this post up to try out the new video feature that is available for the blog. I don't shoot that many videos, but it will be fun to mix things up a bit.


Sunday, October 07, 2007

10-7-07: Fort Ross / Salt Point

The view of the ocean from the Ft. Ross Boulder

Before we got fully into Valley season, I wanted to put a post from a summer trip up the coast. I hadn't been to the Fort Ross Boulder in about 10 years. It was fun to hang out at the beach and climb on a great boulder. Every problem is good! It can't hurt that you're hanging out at a beautiful beach the whole time. We
spent the day climbing with Tim, Patti and Ethan.

Ethan on Waterfall Crack [v3r] and Lyn on the cool problem left of Waterfall crack [v6]

We later headed up the road to check out Salt Point. Ethan hiked the low (?) start to the Waterfall Crack, which is graded v3r. I'm guessing the 'r' comes from the swamp foot you'll get if you fall in the water!

The unnamed arete to the left is also super classic. You kinda think you'd fall off the cliff to the left, but that fall never materializes. The rock in this area seemed to be very grit stone-like, not that I've ever been to the Peak District...