Saturday, December 29, 2007

12-29-07: Dorian Grey

Justin on Dorian Grey [v6/7/8?]

From the same evening that Sworn In [v2] went up came Dorian Grey [v6]. While I'm a little unsure of the grade, there is no question as to the quality of this boulder problem. This bulging prow is found on the boulder to the immediate right of The Fall Classic [v4]. This problem could be anything from v6-v8, but who really cares? Either way, begin sitting with an incut tooth and a small crimp, bust out some cool moves on interesting holds up to a tenuous mantle. Sweet!


Wednesday, December 19, 2007

12-19-07: Diesel Power

Randy Puro and Tim Medina on Diesel Power - FA [v10]

A handful of people have asked me to post something on Diesel Power so here you go. Randy cleaned this amazing line in the Crystals and asked me to help him figure it out. After three days of throwing our selves at the problem I unlocked a sequence and had success. This is the video footage of day three and the first assent of Diesel Power. A big thanks to Daniel Soto for capturing it all. Enjoy!

Here is Randy setting up to dyno for the ledge with Daniel spotting. The foot holds on this problem are small and make every move that much harder. Click on the image to get a close up.

To find Diesel Power from camp 4 you walk on the trail past the bathrooms about 300 meters and you will come to a huge boulder on your left. It is the center line up the boulder. The footage of the video is shot from the trail.

- TM

Monday, December 17, 2007

12-17-07: Bessey

Tim Medina on Bessey [v8]

This gem was found by Mike & Ingar early this fall, right behind the warm-ups at the Ahwahnee boulders. The tiered landing appeared highly problematic at first appraisal, but after working out the moves, we discovered that all the hard climbing was at the start. Much to our relief, that fall puts you squarely onto the "safe" lower tier. The center section, with the much sketchier landing, has easier moves. The problem ends with a spicy, but not-too-hard, lip encounter.

Mike Madigan on Bessey [v8]

There is not too much beta for the bottom except - squeeze! The name of the problem should give you an idea of how much squeezing is involved since Bessey is a kind of wood-working clamp. To find it: look left and behind the Silent Spotter problem. It is also visible from the trail near the "No Fur" boulder.


Monday, December 03, 2007

12-3-07: Pride

Ethan Pringle on Pride [v9]

One of the better dynos in Yosemite lies off the beaten path down past Camp 4, in the Crystals. A thin, delicate face leads you to a huge dyno. The beta that worked for me was to dyno while using my right hand to keep pulling down even as I was flying through the air.

To get there: hike the Camp 4 campground trail past the campground and after about five minutes, the boulder will be just off the trail on your left. If you've reached the moat, you've gone too far.