Monday, December 22, 2008

12-22-08: Ataturk

Lyn Verinsky on Ataturk [v5]

Hidden on the far end of the main Bridalveil boulder, is a cool traverse (not always an oxymoron). It starts on underclings at the bottom of an unnamed seam problem (#6 on page 37 in new guide) but heads left on good holds and finishes on the v0.

Ataturk was named after
Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey. I'm not sure why that popped into my head, but he is a pretty amazing man.

As many of you all know, the valley is currently blanketed by a good layer of snow. It looks like it might be time to start heading to Bishop, or farther south if things don't start to melt soon. I guess it is a testament to how much I like the valley, when I won't totally give up on the season when the web cam looks like this!


Monday, December 15, 2008

12-15-2008 Changing Corners

For anyone who climbs in the Valley, these are dark times. The weather seriously crapped out on Friday, but even so, a hardcore group of us hit the road early Saturday AM in hopes that the reality wasn't as bad as the forecast. Receiving the message from a kind soul in the Valley that "it's wet, there's an inch of snow on the road and it's currently snowing" fifteen minutes out of Oakdale, we reluctantly turned around and headed home. The next couple weeks look grim: snow and rain.

So now what? Although I don't have any video footage of Drive On (isn't that one of the problems shown in that Dosage V movie?), I do have a couple clips of another awesome climb. Located on the same boulder as Shadow Warrior in Candyland, Changing Corners is an enigmatic piece of climbing that is greatly satisfying to unlock. It's all about one key sloper that feels incredibly insecure until your right foot gets about elbow level. Use the first video as a lesson on what NOT to do at the top. Amazingly, Mike was completely unscathed from his crazy fall and after taking a few more, only slightly less spectacular, diggers, sent the rig.

Mike Wickwire on Changing Corners [v8]

And now here's video of Tim Medina making it look easy with his impeccable Yosemite footwork and technique.

Tim Medina on Changing Corners [v8]

- Lyn

Saturday, December 06, 2008

12-6-2008 Thanksgiving Sendfest

Well, this past week has seen several ascents of some cool boulder problems and since it seems folks enjoy watching video, I'm posting 'em. Was it the ham and Thanksgiving festivities that brought on this onslaught of sendage? I'm not sure, but whatever the cause, the result was awesome to watch. First on the send rampage was Paul bagging Shadow Warrior in Candyland. Truly a beautiful boulder in a picturesque setting with lots of great energy from the crew! You all know about this problem from a previous post (here), so without further ado, here's the send: (love those scissor kicks!)

Paul Barraza on Shadow Warrior [v12]

Courtney got in on the boulder crushing as well by dispatching Zodiac [v10] and Tap Dance [v10] in short order. Zodiac is a crimpy face climb located on the El Cap Boulder along with such classics as Spock Was Here [v6] and some other reachy, dihedral climb whose name I can't recall at the moment (really classic, huh?). Anyway, it was an inspiring night send of a damn tall boulder problem so props to her! And I know Courtney would kill me for not mentioning that the send was much assisted by the outrageously good beta provided by crimp-meister Natasha Barnes.

Courtney Hemphill on Zodiac [v10] FFA?

Tap Dance is a slightly less inspiring line - okay, it's kind of a butt dragger and doesn't have any kind of line at all, but it's still darn fun climbing. Also in contrast to Zodiac, the crux moves are on slopers and technical heel hooks - super cool. It's a rare boulder problem in Yosemite that doesn't require a load of Organic pads to make safe, so for that alone, this problem is a gem. Located on the Wine Boulder, Tap Dance starts sitting matched on an obvious side-pull. Tall people should disregard the beta used below, but for shorties, it's pure brilliance.

Courtney Hemphill on Tap Dance [v10] FFA?

Finally, yesterday Paul ticked off a surprise send of Yabo Roof [v12] made famous in Dosage V. What an awesome climb! After being disappointed by it being wet the week before, we hiked out with some trepidation. Fortunately, all concern was immediately dispelled; conditions couldn't have been more ideal. So Paul, without a fuss, sent on his second try of the day. Sorry for my shaky camera-work, I have excuses, but I won't bore you with them. Kevin came incredibly close to sticking the crux sequence for a double send, but he opted to create more drama by waiting to dispatch. Yes, Justin, you would have run off to puke in the trees if you had seen how close he got.

Paul Barraza on Yabo Roof [v12]

- Lyn

Wednesday, December 03, 2008

12-3-08: Billy in the Wheel Well

Patti Phillips on Billy in the Wheel Well [v4]

On the way into the valley it is easy to drive on by the Yosemite Speedway boulder, and I have to assume most people do -judging by the amount of pine needles I find on the top-outs. Well, the next time you are looking for somewhere different to warm up or hone your manteling skills, check out this boulder.

Billy in the Well is on the left side and starts on high edges and climbs through slopers to a spartan finish. There is also a sit start that goes at v7, but it is pretty darn lanky.