Tuesday, September 30, 2008

9-30-08: Seasonal and There Goes the Neighborhood

The first two problems I've established this fall season are not difficult but are both quite fun. They add to the warm up circuit around the Bridalveil Falls area. Pictured is Seasonal [v2], to the left is There Goes the Neighborhood [v2]. Both names are inspired by a less than neighborly exchange I had recently with one of the law enforcement rangers that lives across the street from me. Anyway, there is more soon to come!


Monday, September 29, 2008

9-29-08: Black Buddha

Lyn Verinsky on Black Buddha [v8]

Here is another cool line on the Meadow Roof boulder. While they call it v8, I really didn't think it was that hard. After all, it only took me about 100 tries!


Wednesday, September 10, 2008

9-12-08: Way Lake Trip

Andrew Stevens on Meadow Roof [v8]

After checking out Justin's blog the other day, I saw that he climbed at an area called Way Lake near Mammoth. We headed out over the Labor Day weekend to see if the area climbed as good as it looked on the East Side Bouldering blog. Jeff Sillcox (of East Side Bouldering Blog fame) was nice enough to show us around, spot, give beta and repeat hard problems with no apparent warm up.

The climb above, Meadow Roof, was put up by Tim Steele a few years ago and is one of the most classic problems at Way Lake. Steep climbing with good holds, something you don't find too often in granite areas. The rock is reminiscent of Rocky Mountain National Park and is probably gneiss as well.

Randy Puro on Meadow Face [v9]

Across the 'meadow' from Meadow Roof is another Tim Steele classic, Meadow Face. The feet down low are very technical and the moves at the top are physical - culminating in a desperate throw to a decent pinch.

Randy Puro on Knife Dance [v7]

We warmed up near the bottom of the talus on our first day and an obvious line that drew everyone in was Knife Dance. The climbing is probably more scary than hard, but it is pretty hard to climb when all you are thinking about is the exit strategy. Only after getting comfortable with the moves, do you realize how fun they are.

Jeff Sillcox on the unnamed v6 at the 1-6-9 boulder

Off in the trees lies the 1-6-9 boulder, so named because the three problems on the boulder are rated v1, v6 & v9. The v6 doesn't have a name but should since it's so fun. Ugly Duckling [v9], to the left has a move where you finger lock and twist into a deep drop-knee - probably the first time I've ever done a move like that!

Directions are a little tricky. Go past Mammoth towards Lake Mary and follow signs for Cold Stream campground - park at the trail head in the back. If you have Google Earth, click HERE to see where Meadow Roof is.


Friday, September 05, 2008

9-5-08: Little Blue Anastasia

Lyn Verinsky on Little Blue Anastasia [v8]

Here is a problem that I can't believe I haven't put on BetaBase yet. This is a classic problem put up by Randy Puro way back in the spring of 2005. The area is known as the Indian Caves and this arete is the highlight of the three aretes (The Misfit is to the right) that face half dome. I think it is classic because it exemplifies the uber-technical climbing that Yosemite demands.

To find this problem, park at the Ahwahnee's and hike towards half dome until you get to a big open area and the trail starts to head toward Mirror Meadow. At that point it will on your left right in front of the Indian Caves. Or just check out the guidebook!