Tuesday, November 28, 2006

11-27-06: Candyland

Randy Puro on Shadow Warrior [v12]

Candyland is a new area developed by Matt Wilder in the spring of 2006. The gem of the area is Shadow Warrior, a steep overhanging prow that sits right in front of a beautiful view of El Cap. It's not easy to find the area that is between the Sentinel Boulders and the Cathedral Boulders. Park at the third pull out past the Cathedral Boulders parking. Head straight into the hills and if need be use the following gps coordinates:

[N 37º 43.163, W 119º 37.764]

Robyn Puro on the classic Once Upon a Time [v3]

This might be the only the only boulder problem around that you could time people with a sun dial. While the climb isn't that hard, figuring out your sequence is.

Randy Puro on Happily Ever After [v7]

To the right of the classic dihedral lies this cool arete. The crux is hitting a shallow pocket from the sloper on the arete.

Daniel Soto on A Land Far Away [v3]

Yes, there are warm-ups too. There are more problems than I have room for here so you should go and check it out. It's worth the hike (~15 minutes).


Tuesday, November 21, 2006

11-20-06: The Shield

Randy Puro on the FA of The Shield [v11]

A tall, intimidating but very proud boulder problem lies facing the road just up from the LeConte boulder. Randy had his eye on this potential line but nobody could make much headway - that is everyone except for Randy.

Starting at the lip on two opposing slopers, a number of physical moves gets you to the shield feature. Getting on top of the shield feature is the tricky part however because it's not quite a slab and not quite a face. Once you get your feet on top of the shield, a few thin moves lead to better holds and a tall top-out.

Friday, November 17, 2006

11-17-06: Feet Don't Fail Me Now

Raza on Feet Don't Fail Me Now [v3]

Every once and a while I'll see a line that looks awesome, but just doesn't seem possible. And even some that you think are possible seem too damn scary to even attempt. But on a hot summer's day I got on a rope to check out the line and try to find some holds - and much to my nervous excitement, I found some. The main question was, would I have the cajones to try a boulder problem where the delicate crux is about 20' off the ground? If it got difficult, would there be a way to bail off?

Normally, if such questions were raised, I would just pass on the problem - I never feel the need to cheat death. But the moves on this problem were just too good not to try. Near the end of the day in late October, I dragged the crew out there. The problem turned out to be not that hard, thank god, but the moves and rock were just a good as I had anticipated.

To find this boulder problem, hike from the Happy Isles Nature Center on the Horse trail up the Merced River. Feet Don't Fail Me Now is on the first big boulder on you left.


Thursday, November 16, 2006

11-16-06: Team America

Courtney Hemphill on Team America [v5]

On the right side of the same boulder with Six Degrees sits another cool arete line. It's much easier than Six Degrees but just as fun. Start low and right on some slopes and climb the arete/lip. There is a bail out half way up on a big shelf. The problem keeps climbing left at that point until you are pretty high up and the arete is vertical.

To find this problem, walk behind the Cocaine Corner boulder and you will see the boulder facing you, just up the hill.


Tuesday, November 14, 2006

11-14-06: Torque

Tim Medina on Torque [v7]

Another problem on the LeConte cave with fun, interesting, moves not typically found on granite. This problem is on the same boulder as Narcissus.

Start on obvious flat starting jug and climb up steep, subtle dihedral. It tops out up the crack and right. While it is a little puckery, the landing is flat and with a few spotters and pads - not too bad. There theoretically could be a low start (the same start as Narcissus) but it would be damn hard. Maybe v13/14? Can you say Sharma?