Friday, October 24, 2008

10-24-08: Paralyzed

Noah Kaufman on Paralyzed [v9]

One last Way Lake posting to wrap up the season. Jeff Sillcox sent his amazing high-ball project on the Talladega boulder. After we rustled together as many pads as we could find, he sent the thing on his second try. The line is basically a direct start to Drunk Chicken and climbs up the gently overhanging wall through consistently small crimps.

After sending, he literally packed up and drove out East on a road trip. Nothing like sending your project at the 11th hour!


Tuesday, October 21, 2008

10-21-08: A Walk in the Park

Raza on A Walk in the Park, v2 MORE PHOTOS

Scott Chandler found this cool line when we were warming up at some random boulders west of the main Cathedral Boulders. It is a thin face that has a very committing move at the end. (See right photo above.) Luckily, there is beta for people of the 5'2" persuasion to avoid the big reach.

To find the problem, hike the trail to the Cathedral Boulders but don't veer left - stay on the main Cathedral trail. You will see the problem from the trail on your right.


Wednesday, October 08, 2008

10-08-08: Start of the Fall Season

Rocktober: there's so much to love about this month, but nothing beats that first day back in the Valley after a four month hiatus. The temps were fine and we spent the day on nearly all new (to us) problems to get reacquainted with Yosemite granite after spending the summer on pale imitations. Here's a few videos of some problems at Curry.

Paul Barraza on Joe's Garage [v5]

On the other side of the boulder is another fun, and in my opinion, easier, climb called The Mechanic Direct that Paul insists on calling v5.

Paul Barraza on The Mechanic Direct [v5]

After the fun at Curry, we moved on to Paul's new problem, which has a post all of its own. In the same area is a new problem that Scott Chandler, a.k.a. Junior, put up a couple weekends ago; we're guessing the grade to be in the v3 range. Since we have video of that as well, here it is:


Tuesday, October 07, 2008

10-7-08: Plurality

Paul Barraza on Plurality [v6]

My first new problem of the season is a line that I scoped out last spring, about when the mosquitoes were in full force. Junior and I tried it a couple of weekends ago but it was too warm. This last weekend was cool enough to sneak past the slopers for the FA. There is a hard man direct start to be done as well...

The problem is to the left of Cedar Crack in the Lost Boulders area of Yosemite and just to the right of "Miss Laid", a v2 on the 'v' feature. The problem starts on the bottom of the sloping rail and climbs right to the other angled wall to a rock-over move. The descent is the tree shown in the photos.