Wednesday, January 21, 2015

1-21-15: The Rift

Lyn Barraza climbing The Rift, v8

Happy New Year, here is one of the better new problems put up in Yosemite recently.  Put up last year by Southern Nevada Bouldering guidebook author Tom Moulin, The Rift follows and obvious rib facing the road on one of the "Big Three" boulders at The Crumbs.  

It starts on an obvious square-cut jug in the low rail, climbs up to a tricky lip encounter, and then finishes on a balancy arete feature with great slopers.  To add a little spice, the last move is a committing reach to another square-cut jug.  Everyone I have seen do this climb, has done it slightly differently, and Lyn shows good shorty beta in the video.  

I also put up a right start, which starts sitting on the right arete and climbs into The Rift at the lip encounter.  I called it Schism and it seemed a shade harder (v9?) and while it is not as direct at the original problem, the start moves are fun none-the-less.

To find the problem, look to your left as you enter The Crumbs, the bouldering area below the Cookie Cliff.  The Rift will be plainly visible, just be careful as you walk in, as there may be a bit of poison oak surrounding the landing.