Wednesday, December 19, 2012

12-19-12: Pinball Wizard Revisted

Theo Merrin on Pinball Wizard [v6]

Since it seems that Pinball Wizard has become fashionable again, I thought I would post a video to update the original post, which only had pictures.  Pinball Wizard is a climb that demands more skill than strength, and many people will find it difficult to trust the smear at the crux lip encounter.  Don't let the name scare you, I haven't seen anyone bounce of the back wall...yet....


Thursday, June 28, 2012

6-28-12: Goldilocks

Raza on the first ascent of Goldilocks [v9]

Here is a blast from the past.  I got the FA in May of 2009.  This is a problem in Bridalveil facing the Meat & Potatoes wall.  Not many holds, but just enough to get you by.  (You can say that about many Yosemite boulder problems, though)  It all boils down to a dyno to a decent edge, but you have to grab the hold just right, hence the name: Goldilocks.

Here is Randy Puro on the second ascent.


Tuesday, June 19, 2012

6-19-12: Wild Pack of Family Dogs

Lyn Barraza climbing Wild Pack of Family Dogs [v7]

Went climbing in Tahoe the last few weekends and checked out the Beavers for the first time. Seems like every time I go to Tahoe a new area pops up. Serious props to all the Tahoe guys who are out exploring and finding new stuff.

The Beavers has a fairly good concentration of boulders, so it is easy to spend a day there. One of the better climbs I thought was Wild Pack of Family Dogs, v7. Just wait until the shade arrives.

The first move is pretty big, if you are shorter, so it was pretty cool to see Lyn make the span. Thanks also to Evan for inspiring me to keep posting on BetaBase.


Thursday, January 26, 2012

One Amazing Fall

This fall season might have been one of the best on record. There was a freak storm in late October, but after that it didn't rain until we got 5 inches last weekend. The highs were in the 40s and there was so much climbing going on, I really didn't get that much footage.

Enter Kyle O'Meara. A recent transplant from Washington, he had quite a fall season taking full advantage of the great weather and a his first season in a new bouldering playground. Now that he's done most of the classics, it time for him to start putting up some of his own!

Panic Room [v9] & King Air [v10]

Tom Sawyer [v10] & Pine Box [v10]

Heart of Darkness [v9], Good Vibrations [v11] & Diesel Power [v10]

The Force [v9], Wall to Wall Carpet [v9] & Bruce Lee [v8]