2-16-15: Zephyr

Keenan Takahashi on the first ascent of Zephyr, v12 (photo: Spenser Tang-Smith of the RV Project)

                                           

Yosemite has been a place that people have been bouldering for more that 50 years.  How can it be that half a century later, world class boulder problems are still being established?  There are many factors, including the use of crash pads, but one factor may be that the older generation of enterprising climbers just weren't tilting their heads high enough.  

It seems that the new vanguard of boulders, with limber necks and unbridled enthusiasm, don't seem to mind topping out boulders with 30 feet of air between their heels and the crash pad "landing."  An example of this new Vanguard is Keenan Takahashi and his new skyscraper of a problem, Zephyr, v12. 

Located in the Crumbs, and just a stone's throw from highway 140, this problem starts at an obvious head-height rail.  The crux moves are right in the beginning, a v11 bulge on angled sloper rails.  Then comes a technical face, checking in at v9; but that just leads to the mental crux, a balancy and slopey v7 arete encounter with your heels easily 25 feet above the landing.  

For the record, Keenan didn't give the problem a grade, but in our discussions, v12 seemed to make sense to me. It will be interesting to see what other ascensionists feel.  

Keenan on the mental crux, a tricky v7 arete encounter

ALL PHOTOS: Spenser Tang-Smith of the RV Project

1-21-15: The Rift

Lyn Barraza climbing The Rift, v8

Happy New Year, here is one of the better new problems put up in Yosemite recently.  Put up last year by Southern Nevada Bouldering guidebook author Tom Moulin, The Rift follows and obvious rib facing the road on one of the "Big Three" boulders at The Crumbs.  

It starts on an obvious square-cut jug in the low rail, climbs up to a tricky lip encounter, and then finishes on a balancy arete feature with great slopers.  To add a little spice, the last move is a committing reach to another square-cut jug.  Everyone I have seen do this climb, has done it slightly differently, and Lyn shows good shorty beta in the video.  

I also put up a right start, which starts sitting on the right arete and climbs into The Rift at the lip encounter.  I called it Schism and it seemed a shade harder (v9?) and while it is not as direct at the original problem, the start moves are fun none-the-less.

To find the problem, look to your left as you enter The Crumbs, the bouldering area below the Cookie Cliff.  The Rift will be plainly visible, just be careful as you walk in, as there may be a bit of poison oak surrounding the landing.  

-Raza

11-18-14: Raggedy Anne

Randy Puro on the first ascent of Raggedy Anne [v9] circa 2009

To stay with the recent theme, here is another problem from the Horse Trail.  Located just on the north side of the trail between Cerberus and 1-inch Punch, this technical and slopey problem has a spicy finish.  Definitely better to try in the shade and with a good spot for confidence.  There is a boulder in the landing zone that can be disconcerting, but I never have seen anyone fall on it. 

GPS: 37.745344, -119.562619

-Raza 

11-10-14: Cerberus Right

Paul Barraza on the first ascent of Cerberus Right [v9] circa April 2009


Here is another blast from the past.  Out on the Horse Trail lies a hidden gem amongst the trees.  This was a team affair, as I did the right exit, Randy Puro did the left exit and Justin Alarcon did the middle (direct) exit.  Hence the name Cerberus, or three-headed monster.  

The problem is located on the Horse Trails in the general area between Kauk Face and Raggedy Anne.  It is up the hill from the trail, so it may take a bit of hunting around.  Well worth a search.  For the less adventurous types here are the GPS coordinates: 37.745549, -119.564260.

11-3-14: Zero

Patti Phillips on Zero, v4

There was a previous post about the cool boulder problem Hero, v8 and there is a cool problem to the right that was not mentioned.  If you don't feel like being a "hero" you can bust right onto the slab for a more technical option.  It is still v4, and the upper bit is pretty thin, so you may still need to perform some "heroics" to top out...

It should be noted that another cool problem is nearby - towards El Cap.  Scott Frye's Army (SFA) is a tricky face climb also established in 2008.

-Raza

10-23-14: Deliverance

Beth Rodden on Deliverance, v8

BetaBase is officially out of hibernation mode, as things are starting to cool down a bit.  There is some catching up to do with old posts, and here is a video of beth climbing Deliverance, v8 at the Lost Boulders.

There aren't too many hard crack boulder problems in Yosemite.  In fact, there are basically 3: Bachar Cracker, v4; Deliverance, v8; and Sasquatch, v11.

The boulder can be a bit hard to find.  The Cedar Boulder is a good reference point, but you have to meander into the woods from there.  Here are the GPS coordinates to punch into your smart phone: 37.720655, -119.616680.

-Raza

4-21-14: Single Subject

Joel Ruscher on Single Subject [v9]

After a bit of a hiatus, Joel Ruscher is back in the game.  A few weekends back, Joel nabbed the first ascent of this cool squeeze arete.  As you may have gathered from the name, the climb is deceptively simple, and you feel like you could stick the pinch every go (until you don't).  

The problem is located just to the right of the Infamous Dark Crystal problem at the Ahwahnee boulders.  This time, we have video proof...

4-15-14: Sasquatch

Randy Puro on Sasquatch, v11


Most scientists discount the existence of Bigfoot (Sasquatch) and consider it to be a combination of folklore, misidentification, and hoax rather than a living animal. [wikipedia]

Much like Bigfoot, ascents of Sasquatch are rare as it is one of the hardest pure crack boulder problems around.  Our visits to the valley have been rare as well, after our son was born - but that is a different story.

Randy has been on a tear and sent Sasquatch last December.  It must be hard at his point for home to find established boulder problems that he hasn't done yet. 

If you are feeling like a stone master, go to the back side of the LeConte boulder to test your mettle. 

12-19-12: Pinball Wizard Revisted

Theo Merrin on Pinball Wizard [v6]

Since it seems that Pinball Wizard has become fashionable again, I thought I would post a video to update the original post, which only had pictures.  Pinball Wizard is a climb that demands more skill than strength, and many people will find it difficult to trust the smear at the crux lip encounter.  Don't let the name scare you, I haven't seen anyone bounce of the back wall...yet....

-Raza

6-28-12: Goldilocks

Raza on the first ascent of Goldilocks [v9]

Here is a blast from the past.  I got the FA in May of 2009.  This is a problem in Bridalveil facing the Meat & Potatoes wall.  Not many holds, but just enough to get you by.  (You can say that about many Yosemite boulder problems, though)  It all boils down to a dyno to a decent edge, but you have to grab the hold just right, hence the name: Goldilocks.



Here is Randy Puro on the second ascent.


-Raza

One Amazing Fall

This fall season might have been one of the best on record. There was a freak storm in late October, but after that it didn't rain until we got 5 inches last weekend. The highs were in the 40s and there was so much climbing going on, I really didn't get that much footage.

Enter Kyle O'Meara. A recent transplant from Washington, he had quite a fall season taking full advantage of the great weather and a his first season in a new bouldering playground. Now that he's done most of the classics, it time for him to start putting up some of his own!

Panic Room [v9] & King Air [v10]

Tom Sawyer [v10] & Pine Box [v10]

Heart of Darkness [v9], Good Vibrations [v11] & Diesel Power [v10]

The Force [v9], Wall to Wall Carpet [v9] & Bruce Lee [v8]

-Raza

11-7-11: Post Send Depression

Paul Barraza on Post Send Depression [v7]

Here is a problem that was hidden in plain sight. Located on the B1 boulder at Sentinel just between the Jungle Book and the down climb. Perhaps the two-tiered landing was a deterrent, but with the right pad setup, it is pretty safe.

The problem climbs up a faint dihedral using an unusual assortment of holds. The only downward facing holds are at the top, and they are unnervingly slopey. (hence my fear scream at the top - doh). I'll be honest, the rock is not the best, but once this thing cleans up it could possibly be a classic? Bring a bunch of pads and decide for yourself!

-Raza

UPDATE [2023]: The holds at the top have crumbled a bit, and the problem is harder now.

11-6-11: Riverside Rock Update

Justin Alarcon on Budōkan [v9] at Riverside Rock

We checked out Riverside Rock a few weeks back and I thought an update would be appropriate. Thanks again to Ryan Alonzo for sending in the information that was used to create a previous post.

All the problems on the east face of this boulder are really fun. (We didn't try the problems on the other side) The climbing holds are bigger than average and the wall is steeper than average, making for some fun, gymnastic climbing. I would recommend stopping there on the way home some day, as it is right off the road.

For those of us who climbed there, we thought the grades were a little off, compared to the rest of the valley. Here are the grades from our limited consensus:

Karate: v8

7up: v5

Capoeria: v5

Balance of Opposites: v6

Budōkan: v9 (Justin added the sit start to Karate)

I contacted Jacob Copeland, a longtime valley developer and it turns out he climbed all the lines a few years back!! He didn't name anything and thought the names that Justin and Ryan came up with were great. He also said that he put up a sit start to 7up - though I have a hard time visualizing how the sit start would link into that problem.

-Raza

7-28-11: Riverside Rock

A short video by Ryan Alonzo

I got an email a while back from Ryan Alonzo with a link to the above video. This isn't a boulder that I've seen before, but it looks pretty cool. I talked to Jacob Copeland and it turns out that he had previously climbed some of the lines, so it would be interesting to hear his names / grades for the ones he did. Thank you Ryan for putting this together!!

Here is the info:

Directions: On northside drive about 1 mile west past el cap meadow there will be a paved pullout on the lefthand side of the street that is a view point for Bridalveil falls. Park at the first dirt pull out on the left past the view point. The boulder is next to the road 2 min walk west of pull out.

6-1-11: Aphrodite

Raza on Aphrodite [v5]

Here is a great line that was put up this last winter. This was the last installment from the Crumbs, the bouldering area below the Cookie Cliff. It was hard to come up with a grade, since I am not a great crack climber. I managed to wedge my fingers just long enough to send the thing!

Thanks for the vid Scott!

-Raza

4-13-11: Bipolar

Raza on the first ascent of Bipolar [v7]

Here is another climb from The Crumbs and this one is right next to (facing) First Act. The problem is fiendishly simple: dyno then mantle. But once you try it, you find out quickly that it is not so simple...

-Raza

3-8-11: First Act

Paul Barraza on the FA of First Act [v8]

Things are getting a bit stale around here, so here is some footage of a first ascent I snagged between snow storms this winter. It is in the area we have dubbed the "Crumbs" as they are the base of the Cookie Cliff. There are a few established problems in the area that are cool as well.

The problem starts sitting on a good sidepull feature and finishes on a good rail about 12' up. It is called First Act because the 30 foot second act is yet to be done. (Kevin Jorgeson, are you reading this?) The finish would be tall and committing with a thin technical section right after the big rail, that would be maybe v4x on its own right.

-Raza

10-22-10: Four from the Valley

Short video by Scott Chandler from his recent trip to the valley

Here is a list of the problems in the video:

Hammerhead, v5 @ Camp 4: committing top with a bad landing, bring pads and spotters (and a good head).

A Walk in the Park, v2 @ Cathedral: Another highball with a committing topout!

Quasimodo, v7 @ Cathedral: A new line that Scott just put up on the rim trail just west of the Cathedral boulder turn off. A tad reachy, but definitely an instant classic.

Unnamed, v9? @ Cathedral: An unnamed line with the same start as ladder detail, but head out right and then back left at the lip. Never heard a name or a grade, but it is probably about v9ish. Anyone know the name, or have any ideas for a good name??

Thanks for the video Scott!

-Raza

10-8-10: Mirror Lake

Colton working a short-lived project (Sweat Lodge)

Last June, valley local Colton Lindeman was nice enough to tour Scott Chandler and myself around some boulders he had been developing. The Mirror Lake boulders are a new area with plenty of potential. Here are some pics from our tour:

The warm up boulder

Colton on a cool arete Hobbit [v3]

Colton on the highball arete Dead or Alive [v8]

Scott on the FA of a new line (Sweat Lodge)

Colton on a short and steep v6, one of the few problems that was established before his development.

Colton trying a project close to Mirror Lake.

To get to the Mirror Lake Boulders, park at the stables and hike out the paved road. Turn left at the fork in the road and turn right after 100 feet or so. That will take you to the warm up boulder. The rest of the boulders are all behind that, but because everything is so jumbled, it is impossible to give precise directions. Just go and have have fun exploring!

-Raza

5-20-10: Cilley

Theo Merrin climbing Cilley [v10]

Here is another not-so-hidden gem, this time at the Ahwahnee Boulders. This one is on the main Ahwahnee boulder only about 10 feet from the parking lot, so don't worry about hiring Sherpas. Sit start on a obvious rail and climb through intense moves all the way through the top-out. Surmounting the lip is harder than it looks, so don't let down your guard!

Theo Merrin from Colorado climbs Cilley in this video and I was super psyched to shoot him sending all the classics on a recent trip. More to come!

-Raza