1-18-08: Sent Arete

Lily Nguyen climbing Sent Arete [v3].



Scott Chandler climbing Sent Arete [v3].


I found this fun problem about a year ago while I was wandering around the Sentinel area. The moves are really fun and the holds are cool. To find it, simply walk up the main path from the warm ups for a couple of minutes. You will pass a 5.9R arete on your left. Continue on the path for just a bit longer and the Sent Arete will be off in the trees on the right side. It has since been cleaned more, so dont let all the moss seen in the photos scare you off! Enjoy!

P.S. Also, while you are there check out the thin face to the left, which Raza climbed last spring.

-Scott

12-29-07: Dorian Grey

Justin on Dorian Grey [v6/7/8?]

From the same evening that Sworn In [v2] went up came Dorian Grey [v6]. While I'm a little unsure of the grade, there is no question as to the quality of this boulder problem. This bulging prow is found on the boulder to the immediate right of The Fall Classic [v4]. This problem could be anything from v6-v8, but who really cares? Either way, begin sitting with an incut tooth and a small crimp, bust out some cool moves on interesting holds up to a tenuous mantle. Sweet!

-Justin

12-19-07: Diesel Power

Randy Puro and Tim Medina on Diesel Power - FA [v10]

A handful of people have asked me to post something on Diesel Power so here you go. Randy cleaned this amazing line in the Crystals and asked me to help him figure it out. After three days of throwing our selves at the problem I unlocked a sequence and had success. This is the video footage of day three and the first assent of Diesel Power. A big thanks to Daniel Soto for capturing it all. Enjoy!




Here is Randy setting up to dyno for the ledge with Daniel spotting. The foot holds on this problem are small and make every move that much harder. Click on the image to get a close up.

To find Diesel Power from camp 4 you walk on the trail past the bathrooms about 300 meters and you will come to a huge boulder on your left. It is the center line up the boulder. The footage of the video is shot from the trail.

- TM

12-17-07: Bessey

Tim Medina on Bessey [v8]

This gem was found by Mike & Ingar early this fall, right behind the warm-ups at the Ahwahnee boulders. The tiered landing appeared highly problematic at first appraisal, but after working out the moves, we discovered that all the hard climbing was at the start. Much to our relief, that fall puts you squarely onto the "safe" lower tier. The center section, with the much sketchier landing, has easier moves. The problem ends with a spicy, but not-too-hard, lip encounter.


Mike Madigan on Bessey [v8]

There is not too much beta for the bottom except - squeeze! The name of the problem should give you an idea of how much squeezing is involved since Bessey is a kind of wood-working clamp. To find it: look left and behind the Silent Spotter problem. It is also visible from the trail near the "No Fur" boulder.

-Raza

Randy Puro on Bessey, v8

12-3-07: Pride

Ethan Pringle on Pride [v9] One of the better dynos in Yosemite lies off the beaten path down past Camp 4, in the Crystals. A thin, delicate face leads you to a huge dyno. The beta that worked for me was to dyno while using my right hand to keep pulling down even as I was flying through the air. To get there: hike the Camp 4 campground trail past the campground and after about five minutes, the boulder will be just off the trail on your left. If you've reached the moat, you've gone too far. -Raza

11-30-07: Sworn In

John Vallejo making the first ascent of Sworn In [v2]

This time around John actually put in the work before snagging the first ascent. John also just passed the bar exam and was sworn in by the local federal judge here in Yosemite Valley (the judge's first). This problem is in Happy Isles and is a pleasant addition to the bouldering here and this one actually has a nice landing! Getting off this boulder isn't an easy walk-off however, "Down It" is about [v0] in its own right.

There were three other new problems added to the area tonight so stay tuned!

-Justin

11-23-07: Pine Box

Justin Alarcon working the Pine Box [v11], photo by John Vallejo

I first discovered this boulder problem in September 2006 while participating in the Yosemite Climber Association's annual clean-up, the Yosemite Facelift. I volunteered to go up to the south face of Half Dome, along with several other chaps, to carry out nearly 700lbs. of cable and steel pipe that had been accidentally dropped from the top nearly 20 years ago. As we started heading up I couldn't help but notice the large boulders surrounding us. I slipped away from the group for a few minutes and stumbled upon what would become the Pine Box and I knew I had to come back.
Several months later, when it was a bit colder I returned. I knew from the beginning that the problem should start from a sitting position, but I couldn't manage the giant spans. I was able to do it from a several stand starts, the most obvious being about [v5 or v6]. I showed it to a few friends and soon the visiting Swede, Oskar Rennstam Rubbmark made the FA. The full line comes in at about [v11] although it seems harder for those on the shorter end of the spectrum. Enjoy, the line its fantastic!

-Justin

11-22-07: Justin's John-dis

Vallejo making the crux reach on Jusin's John-dis [v3]

On a rest day last week I went up to Candyland with John Vallejo who wanted to climb The Diamond [v8]. I took the opportunity to clean the tall face directly opposite of it. On yet another rest day I found myself up there again, this time as spotter/photographer. John took this chance to go for the FA. Unfortunately, John has very little footwork and even less hip flexibility so he couldn't do it from the intended start. Instead, he began off a small boulder to the right. He was going to call it Justin's Jaundice until I pointed out the potential for a play on words. Nice work John!

Vallejo on the FA

-Justin

UPDATE 12-4-2007: The direct start goes! Tommy sent today and as usual did not suggest a name so I'm calling it, "It's All In the Hips". It adds a really tough rock-over move to this already great line.

11-21-07: Thriller

Lyn Verinsky on Thriller [v10]

On Saturday, Lyn 'slayed the dragon' by climbing Thriller in great style. There was a pretty big crew trying the problem and the spotters enabled me to shoot some video. For those not familiar with Thriller, it is considered one of the best, if not the best problem in the Valley. It takes everything: strength, technique and determination!

Nice work Lyn!

-Raza

11-12-07: King Air

Tommy on King Air [v10]

After a full day of bouldering the crew met up with Beth and Tommy for some evening action. We all wanted to try King Air and Tommy had several Mondo pads so the time was right. The first series of moves are harder than you think but if you can get to the ledge you can get a rest (if you have some endurance). After that comes a huge dyno that in the dark is a little deceptive. Tommy ends up going for a slopper that in the light you would obviously skip. Well like I said it was dark and the rest is history. Enjoy!

- TM