3-8-11: First Act

Paul Barraza on the FA of First Act [v8]

Things are getting a bit stale around here, so here is some footage of a first ascent I snagged between snow storms this winter. It is in the area we have dubbed the "Crumbs" as they are the base of the Cookie Cliff. There are a few established problems in the area that are cool as well.

The problem starts sitting on a good sidepull feature and finishes on a good rail about 12' up. It is called First Act because the 30 foot second act is yet to be done. (Kevin Jorgeson, are you reading this?) The finish would be tall and committing with a thin technical section right after the big rail, that would be maybe v4x on its own right.

-Raza

10-22-10: Four from the Valley

Short video by Scott Chandler from his recent trip to the valley

Here is a list of the problems in the video:

Hammerhead, v5 @ Camp 4: committing top with a bad landing, bring pads and spotters (and a good head).

A Walk in the Park, v2 @ Cathedral: Another highball with a committing topout!

Quasimodo, v7 @ Cathedral: A new line that Scott just put up on the rim trail just west of the Cathedral boulder turn off. A tad reachy, but definitely an instant classic.

Unnamed, v9? @ Cathedral: An unnamed line with the same start as ladder detail, but head out right and then back left at the lip. Never heard a name or a grade, but it is probably about v9ish. Anyone know the name, or have any ideas for a good name??

Thanks for the video Scott!

-Raza

10-8-10: Mirror Lake

Colton working a short-lived project (Sweat Lodge)

Last June, valley local Colton Lindeman was nice enough to tour Scott Chandler and myself around some boulders he had been developing. The Mirror Lake boulders are a new area with plenty of potential. Here are some pics from our tour:

The warm up boulder

Colton on a cool arete Hobbit [v3]

Colton on the highball arete Dead or Alive [v8]

Scott on the FA of a new line (Sweat Lodge)

Colton on a short and steep v6, one of the few problems that was established before his development.

Colton trying a project close to Mirror Lake.

To get to the Mirror Lake Boulders, park at the stables and hike out the paved road. Turn left at the fork in the road and turn right after 100 feet or so. That will take you to the warm up boulder. The rest of the boulders are all behind that, but because everything is so jumbled, it is impossible to give precise directions. Just go and have have fun exploring!

-Raza

5-20-10: Cilley

Theo Merrin climbing Cilley [v10]

Here is another not-so-hidden gem, this time at the Ahwahnee Boulders. This one is on the main Ahwahnee boulder only about 10 feet from the parking lot, so don't worry about hiring Sherpas. Sit start on a obvious rail and climb through intense moves all the way through the top-out. Surmounting the lip is harder than it looks, so don't let down your guard!

Theo Merrin from Colorado climbs Cilley in this video and I was super psyched to shoot him sending all the classics on a recent trip. More to come!

-Raza

4-28-10: Seams So

Theo Merrin climbing Seams So [v8] at the Sentinel Boulders

As important as the Merced River Plan is, it is time for a new post. Some of you might be be wondering about the lack of updates recently. I dropped my camera off at a repair shop in October, and the owner skipped town/fell off the face of the earth shortly thereafter. After 6 months of trying to get my camera back, Lyn was nice enough to get me a new one for my birthday. Thanks Lyn!!

Seams So is an obscure problem on the B1 Boulder in the Sentinel Boulders. I hadn't given it much though until recently because I initially thought it finished straight up the scary slab. It turns out that it traverses to the right arete, a much saner option. So if you have already done No Holds Bard and Slapshot, give this one a try.

-Raza

01-29-10: Merced River Plan

Have you or your friends ever enjoyed a good day of climbing in Yosemite? If you ever have, I strongly encourage you to take action. See below:


We need your help to influence the latest Merced River Plan, which could restrict climbing access and camping in Yosemite Valley, depending on how the Park prepares its new revised user capacity program. At issue is access to iconic climbs including those found on The Rostrum, Cookie Cliff, and Middle Cathedral Rock (everything ¼ mile on either side of the river). This plan will also affect all travel through the management area to locations just outside the river corridor, which brings into play all climbing in Yosemite Valley including El Capitan and even Half Dome. Another consequence of this litigation is the increased likelihood that camping will become even more scarce while the number of lodging units remains largely unchanged.

Please write Yosemite National Park by February 4 and support the preservation of climbing access in the Valley! With our easy-to-use letter writing tool, it only takes two minutes to make your voice heard.

Thanks for your support,

Your Friends at the Access Fund

www.accessfund.org/action

1-16-10: Kumba

Scott Chandler climbing Kumba, v9/10 @ Camp 4

For all you slab lovers, this post is for you. Word on the street is that Dean Potter originally climbed Kumba and called it v8. After many years, a few other climbers repeated it, and in the process the climb was upgraded to v11. Recently, Randy, Paul, and I managed to make it to the top of this gem and while I am skeptical of the v11 grade, it is truly hard in that it requires the utmost in technique, balance, and 100% trust in your feet.

This amazing slab faces up-valley on the energy boulder in camp 4 and can be found by walking up the falls trail; go slightly past "king cobra" then head left. Bring your best shoes and a few pads because the last move is a committing dyno. Enjoy! -Scott

12-14-09: Teenage Mutant Ninja Gerbils

Just up the hill from the big boulder at the Woodyard lays another big boulder. In addition to 'Chicken Nugget,' this boulder offers something most of the others at the Woodyard don't...warmups! Once warmed up one should try the new addition, 'Teenage Mutant Ninja Gerbils' [v8?]. Unfortunately the video was started a little too late to catch the first move. Its not very difficult so don't worry about it too much, but for clarity's sake, one begins crossed with a left hand on a good edge and a right hand on a smaller triangular shaped edge. Here's Raza making the first ascent courtesy of the very generous Rebecca Trafecanty.

Oh yeah, please ignore the guy stuffing his face while pretending to spot.

-Justin

10-29-09: 601

Paul Barraza on the FA of 601 [v8]

The El Cap Boulder is a solitary boulder found near the parking at the "Devil's Elbow" along Northside Drive. The established problems on this boulder are tall, crimpy, and of very high quality. This past weekend a new problem, which had somehow lain dormant all this time, was added to the boulder. Paul and I cleaned the obvious arete to the left of Zodiac [v10] thinking a compression problem would be a nice contrast to all of the crimping on the boulder. It turns out 601 is more of a complimentary piece than a contrast.

As usual these days, Paul was the first to make his way to the top with Scott and myself close on his heels. Thanks to Scott for providing the video. In regard to the grade, [v8] seems to be fair, though it may feel a touch easier or harder depending on your height (typical).

-Justin

10-17-09: Do-bop

Hey everyone! Do-bop is a great problem (one of the more interesting for the grade in the valley) located directly below Lower Cathedral Rock. This area doesn't get a lot of traffic but is easily accessible and has some very interesting rock. Check out pg. 38 of the Yosemite Bouldering guidebook for approach and problem description. There are several other lines in the immediate zone, the highlight of which is a hard to describe slopey lip traverse/ arete/ overhang called Squirrel [v6] that Jacob Copeland cleaned and climbed a couple years back. Stellar moves with amazing rock! Without further ado, here is a video of Natasha climbing Do-bop. Enjoy!
-scott