12-14-09: Teenage Mutant Ninja Gerbils

Just up the hill from the big boulder at the Woodyard lays another big boulder. In addition to 'Chicken Nugget,' this boulder offers something most of the others at the Woodyard don't...warmups! Once warmed up one should try the new addition, 'Teenage Mutant Ninja Gerbils' [v8?]. Unfortunately the video was started a little too late to catch the first move. Its not very difficult so don't worry about it too much, but for clarity's sake, one begins crossed with a left hand on a good edge and a right hand on a smaller triangular shaped edge. Here's Raza making the first ascent courtesy of the very generous Rebecca Trafecanty.

Oh yeah, please ignore the guy stuffing his face while pretending to spot.

-Justin

10-29-09: 601

Paul Barraza on the FA of 601 [v8]

The El Cap Boulder is a solitary boulder found near the parking at the "Devil's Elbow" along Northside Drive. The established problems on this boulder are tall, crimpy, and of very high quality. This past weekend a new problem, which had somehow lain dormant all this time, was added to the boulder. Paul and I cleaned the obvious arete to the left of Zodiac [v10] thinking a compression problem would be a nice contrast to all of the crimping on the boulder. It turns out 601 is more of a complimentary piece than a contrast.

As usual these days, Paul was the first to make his way to the top with Scott and myself close on his heels. Thanks to Scott for providing the video. In regard to the grade, [v8] seems to be fair, though it may feel a touch easier or harder depending on your height (typical).

-Justin

10-17-09: Do-bop

Hey everyone! Do-bop is a great problem (one of the more interesting for the grade in the valley) located directly below Lower Cathedral Rock. This area doesn't get a lot of traffic but is easily accessible and has some very interesting rock. Check out pg. 38 of the Yosemite Bouldering guidebook for approach and problem description. There are several other lines in the immediate zone, the highlight of which is a hard to describe slopey lip traverse/ arete/ overhang called Squirrel [v6] that Jacob Copeland cleaned and climbed a couple years back. Stellar moves with amazing rock! Without further ado, here is a video of Natasha climbing Do-bop. Enjoy!
-scott

9-29-09 Nat's Traverse

Before the start of the fall season in Yosemite begins in earnest, I'd like to share a video I shot earlier today of Rebekah Taggart climbing Nat's Traverse at Mortar Rock in the Berkeley hills. Nat's is one of the most coveted problems at Mortar, requiring power, excellent technique and, what is often in short supply among boulderers, endurance. Many climbers work this problem for months just to fall demoralizingly close to the end (again and again). It was inspiring to see Rebekah send this impressive testpiece and witness her amazing positive attitude and perseverance.



- Lyn

8-2-09: Leo the Lion

Randy Puro on the first ascent of Leo the Lion [v9]

Here is another cool line on the Orion Boulder. This is just on the left side of that same face. This post will be brief because I am in South Africa right now - enjoy the video!

-Raza

7-5-09: One Inch Punch

Randy Puro on the first ascent of One Inch Punch [v9]

Here is another cool problem near Orion on the Horse Trail. It is called One Inch Punch because the crux is a move where your hand only has to move a few inches! It is still the crux though.

-Raza

6-4-09: Orion

Cole Zuelke climbing Orion [v8]

Back in the beginning of the spring season when the snows were starting to melt - Scott Chandler took me out to a cool new boulder that he found right off of the Horse Trail to Mirror Lake. Although Scott got the first ascent by himself and only one pad, I would suggest bringing a few pads and a few friends. The top isn't hard, but you are pretty high up by then.

-Raza

P.S. My original video of Scott Chandler was so terrible, I had to change it out.  I hope Cole doesn't mind!!

5-23-09: Kudra

Lyn Verinsky on Kudra [v6]

It is Memorial Day weekend and the hordes have invaded Yosemite Valley. No, not just the hordes of tourists, but the hordes of mosquitoes as well! It is time to catch up on some posts from the spring valley season - so stay tuned!

Kudra is a cool arete up in Candyland that Matt Wilder put up a few years back. It has a scary tiered landing, but that is more of a mental crux than anything else since I have never seen anyone land on the upper tier of the landing. The climb culminates with a commiting move to a good jug a few feet below the lip.

-Raza

5-16-09: Orange Face- Revisited

Randy Puro nabs the second ascent of the Orange Face [v10] at the Bridalveil boulders. Nice job Randy! See a previous post on Orange Face.

-Scott

5-6-09: Fluffy White Clouds

Justin Alarcon on the FA of Fluffy White Clouds, v6

Not a highball? Some Yosemite regulars would call this blasphemy. Others point to such fine problems as 'Tap Dance' [v10], 'Chocolate Bunny' [v6], and the 'Bear-Hug Mantel' [v4] as examples of how pleasant a little lowball action can be. To this end, I submit 'Fluffy White Clouds' [v5-7] for the community's approval. While it may not be as classic as the previously mentioned lines, it should be a nice addition to the Yosemite lowball circuit.

This problem is located on the small boulder adjacent to the 'Panic Room'[v9] boulder.

-Justin