Behind such notable climbs as Hero and Zero, hides another good problem called Scott Frye's Army. It starts on a blunt arete and climbs up a spartan face in classic Yosemite style: crimpy and technical. The first move sets the tone: a desperate slap from two bad side-pull slopers to a good edge. While the hard climbing is mostly in the beginning, it never really lets up, either.
To find the problem, walk around the Hero boulder and it is hard to miss.
In late August I found this line not more that 20 feet from the road. It's also not more than 20 feet from the Merced River. The rock is bullet, the landing is pretty good, and the setting is prime. I can't believe there are still unclimbed boulders like this here in Yosemite. The one drawback is that it faces due south, so I waited for cooler temperatures and a few friends to arrive before giving it a try. Kevin Cuckavich nabbed the first ascent and suggested [v6]. I did it shortly afterward using so different beta to avoid a massive reach and I thought it felt a bit harder.
If you are short you may have to do something crazy like this
One last Way Lake posting to wrap up the season. Jeff Sillcox sent his amazing high-ball project on the Talladega boulder. After we rustled together as many pads as we could find, he sent the thing on his second try. The line is basically a direct start to Drunk Chicken and climbs up the gently overhanging wall through consistently small crimps.
After sending, he literally packed up and drove out East on a road trip. Nothing like sending your project at the 11th hour!
Scott Chandler found this cool line when we were warming up at some random boulders west of the main Cathedral Boulders. It is a thin face that has a very committing move at the end. (See right photo above.) Luckily, there is beta for people of the 5'2" persuasion to avoid the big reach.
To find the problem, hike the trail to the Cathedral Boulders but don't veer left - stay on the main Cathedral trail. You will see the problem from the trail on your right.
Rocktober: there's so much to love about this month, but nothing beats that first day back in the Valley after a four month hiatus. The temps were fine and we spent the day on nearly all new (to us) problems to get reacquainted with Yosemite granite after spending the summer on pale imitations. Here's a few videos of some problems at Curry.
Paul Barraza on Joe's Garage [v5]
On the other side of the boulder is another fun, and in my opinion, easier, climb called The Mechanic Direct that Paul insists on calling v5.
Paul Barraza on The Mechanic Direct [v5]
After the fun at Curry, we moved on to Paul's new problem, which has a post all of its own. In the same area is a new problem that Scott Chandler, a.k.a. Junior, put up a couple weekends ago; we're guessing the grade to be in the v3 range. Since we have video of that as well, here it is:
My first new problem of the season is a line that I scoped out last spring, about when the mosquitoes were in full force. Junior and I tried it a couple of weekends ago but it was too warm. This last weekend was cool enough to sneak past the slopers for the FA. There is a hard man direct start to be done as well...
The problem is to the left of Cedar Crack in the Lost Boulders area of Yosemite and just to the right of "Miss Laid", a v2 on the 'v' feature. The problem starts on the bottom of the sloping rail and climbs right to the other angled wall to a rock-over move. The descent is the tree shown in the photos.
The first two problems I've established this fall season are not difficult but are both quite fun. They add to the warm up circuit around the Bridalveil Falls area. Pictured is Seasonal [v2], to the left is There Goes the Neighborhood [v2]. Both names are inspired by a less than neighborly exchange I had recently with one of the law enforcement rangers that lives across the street from me. Anyway, there is more soon to come!
Here is another cool line on the Meadow Roof boulder. While they call it v8, I really didn't think it was that hard. After all, it only took me about 100 tries!
After checking out Justin's blog the other day, I saw that he climbed at an area called Way Lake near Mammoth. We headed out over the Labor Day weekend to see if the area climbed as good as it looked on the East Side Bouldering blog. Jeff Sillcox (of East Side Bouldering Blog fame) was nice enough to show us around, spot, give beta and repeat hard problems with no apparent warm up.
The climb above, Meadow Roof, was put up by Tim Steele a few years ago and is one of the most classic problems at Way Lake. Steep climbing with good holds, something you don't find too often in granite areas. The rock is reminiscent of Rocky Mountain National Park and is probably gneiss as well.
Randy Puro on Meadow Face [v9]
Across the 'meadow' from Meadow Roof is another Tim Steele classic, Meadow Face. The feet down low are very technical and the moves at the top are physical - culminating in a desperate throw to a decent pinch.
Randy Puro on Knife Dance [v7]
We warmed up near the bottom of the talus on our first day and an obvious line that drew everyone in was Knife Dance. The climbing is probably more scary than hard, but it is pretty hard to climb when all you are thinking about is the exit strategy. Only after getting comfortable with the moves, do you realize how fun they are.
Jeff Sillcox on the unnamed v6 at the 1-6-9 boulder
Off in the trees lies the 1-6-9 boulder, so named because the three problems on the boulder are rated v1, v6 & v9. The v6 doesn't have a name but should since it's so fun. Ugly Duckling [v9], to the left has a move where you finger lock and twist into a deep drop-knee - probably the first time I've ever done a move like that!
Directions are a little tricky. Go past Mammoth towards Lake Mary and follow signs for Cold Stream campground - park at the trail head in the back. If you have Google Earth, click HERE to see where Meadow Roof is.
Here is a problem that I can't believe I haven't put on BetaBase yet. This is a classic problem put up by Randy Puro way back in the spring of 2005. The area is known as the Indian Caves and this arete is the highlight of the three aretes (The Misfit is to the right) that face half dome. I think it is classic because it exemplifies the uber-technical climbing that Yosemite demands.
To find this problem, park at the Ahwahnee's and hike towards half dome until you get to a big open area and the trail starts to head toward Mirror Meadow. At that point it will on your left right in front of the Indian Caves. Or just check out the guidebook!
