Wednesday, May 16, 2007

06-23-07: Luna Lovegood

Luna Lovegood [v4-6?]

For some reason, Paul got all up in arms when Randy chose to name this boulder problem Luna Lovegood. Perhaps it was the Harry Potter reference that offended or it may have been the fact that the name really doesn't make any sense, which actually makes it the perfect name for this rather odd boulder problem. Situated in the heart of Camp 4, a stone's throw away from the Dominator, this problem came into existence as a bit of a joke. The start holds on the right side of the boulder are quite obvious and large, but the line forces you up and left over a very unappetizing landing and a potential fall into a tree. Of course, given these qualities, Randy couldn't wait to climb it. After some preliminary attempts that went something like this: "crap, who cleaned this thing! It's totally dirty up here! I'm coming down - do you have me?" we were inspired to scramble to the top via the slab and give it a proper cleaning. Once that was done, everyone scampered to the top with a minimum of cursing.

This problem is really quite fun, with friendly holds (granite slopers!) and a little spice. The very top is relatively easy, especially for Yosemite, but a few large pads and some good spotters go a long way to improve one's confidence. (Start standing on the right side of the boulder on the right side of the arete, climb up and left. You will end up on the left side of the arete, topping out by squeezing between the big boulder to your right and the tree to your left. Now, doesn't that sound like a good time?)

11-9-15 UPDATE:
Here is a photo of Randy on it this weekend after cleaning off the accumulated pine needles.  

No comments: