Friday, January 29, 2010

01-29-10: Merced River Plan

Have you or your friends ever enjoyed a good day of climbing in Yosemite? If you ever have, I strongly encourage you to take action. See below:

We need your help to influence the latest Merced River Plan, which could restrict climbing access and camping in Yosemite Valley, depending on how the Park prepares its new revised user capacity program. At issue is access to iconic climbs including those found on The Rostrum, Cookie Cliff, and Middle Cathedral Rock (everything ¼ mile on either side of the river). This plan will also affect all travel through the management area to locations just outside the river corridor, which brings into play all climbing in Yosemite Valley including El Capitan and even Half Dome. Another consequence of this litigation is the increased likelihood that camping will become even more scarce while the number of lodging units remains largely unchanged.

Please write Yosemite National Park by February 4 and support the preservation of climbing access in the Valley! With our easy-to-use letter writing tool, it only takes two minutes to make your voice heard.

Thanks for your support,

Your Friends at the Access Fund

Friday, January 22, 2010

1-16-10: Kumba

Scott Chandler climbing Kumba, v9/10 @ Camp 4
For all you slab lovers, this post is for you. Word on the street is that Dean Potter originally climbed Kumba and called it v8. After many years, a few other climbers repeated it, and in the process the climb was upgraded to v11. Recently, Randy, Paul, and I managed to make it to the top of this gem and while I am skeptical of the v11 grade, it is truly hard in that it requires the utmost in technique, balance, and 100% trust in your feet.

This amazing slab faces up-valley on the energy boulder in camp 4 and can be found by walking up the falls trail; go slightly past "king cobra" then head left. Bring your best shoes and a few pads because the last move is a committing dyno. Enjoy!