11-30-07: Sworn In

John Vallejo making the first ascent of Sworn In [v2]

This time around John actually put in the work before snagging the first ascent. John also just passed the bar exam and was sworn in by the local federal judge here in Yosemite Valley (the judge's first). This problem is in Happy Isles and is a pleasant addition to the bouldering here and this one actually has a nice landing! Getting off this boulder isn't an easy walk-off however, "Down It" is about [v0] in its own right.

There were three other new problems added to the area tonight so stay tuned!

-Justin

11-23-07: Pine Box

Justin Alarcon working the Pine Box [v11], photo by John Vallejo

I first discovered this boulder problem in September 2006 while participating in the Yosemite Climber Association's annual clean-up, the Yosemite Facelift. I volunteered to go up to the south face of Half Dome, along with several other chaps, to carry out nearly 700lbs. of cable and steel pipe that had been accidentally dropped from the top nearly 20 years ago. As we started heading up I couldn't help but notice the large boulders surrounding us. I slipped away from the group for a few minutes and stumbled upon what would become the Pine Box and I knew I had to come back.
Several months later, when it was a bit colder I returned. I knew from the beginning that the problem should start from a sitting position, but I couldn't manage the giant spans. I was able to do it from a several stand starts, the most obvious being about [v5 or v6]. I showed it to a few friends and soon the visiting Swede, Oskar Rennstam Rubbmark made the FA. The full line comes in at about [v11] although it seems harder for those on the shorter end of the spectrum. Enjoy, the line its fantastic!

-Justin

11-22-07: Justin's John-dis

Vallejo making the crux reach on Jusin's John-dis [v3]

On a rest day last week I went up to Candyland with John Vallejo who wanted to climb The Diamond [v8]. I took the opportunity to clean the tall face directly opposite of it. On yet another rest day I found myself up there again, this time as spotter/photographer. John took this chance to go for the FA. Unfortunately, John has very little footwork and even less hip flexibility so he couldn't do it from the intended start. Instead, he began off a small boulder to the right. He was going to call it Justin's Jaundice until I pointed out the potential for a play on words. Nice work John!

Vallejo on the FA

-Justin

UPDATE 12-4-2007: The direct start goes! Tommy sent today and as usual did not suggest a name so I'm calling it, "It's All In the Hips". It adds a really tough rock-over move to this already great line.

11-21-07: Thriller

Lyn Verinsky on Thriller [v10]

On Saturday, Lyn 'slayed the dragon' by climbing Thriller in great style. There was a pretty big crew trying the problem and the spotters enabled me to shoot some video. For those not familiar with Thriller, it is considered one of the best, if not the best problem in the Valley. It takes everything: strength, technique and determination!

Nice work Lyn!

-Raza

11-12-07: King Air

Tommy on King Air [v10]

After a full day of bouldering the crew met up with Beth and Tommy for some evening action. We all wanted to try King Air and Tommy had several Mondo pads so the time was right. The first series of moves are harder than you think but if you can get to the ledge you can get a rest (if you have some endurance). After that comes a huge dyno that in the dark is a little deceptive. Tommy ends up going for a slopper that in the light you would obviously skip. Well like I said it was dark and the rest is history. Enjoy!

- TM

11-9-07: Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass

Isaac on Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass [v9]

We took another day trip to the valley yesterday and met up with Isaac Caldiero visiting from Utah. Isaac has been killing it lately sending up to v13. We headed down to one of our many undone projects but none of us had any luck nailing it. Later in the night we met up with the ladies in camp 4 and Isaac dispatched Don’t Make Me Kick Your Ass in great style. The first move is very powerful and has sent many good climbers walking away scratching their heads. The rest isn’t easy but it definitely lightens up a bit and involves some fun healhooking, body tension and what else but a tricky mantle at the top. The problem is located on the back of the Columbia boulder.

- TM

11-7-07: King Cobra Sit

Brendan on King Cobra Sit [v9]

After two crazy long days and nights of bouldering Courtney and Brendan were still going hard trying the true sit start of King Cobra (note: I hit the record button late). It is rumored that Yuji Hirayama got the FA on this but no one know's for sure. Anyway Brendan probably got the second assent and by lantern Sunday night. I am sure he was cooked when it when down making it even more impressive. The climb involves very technical movement, lots of shoulder flexibility and oh yeah some power. Good work Brendan!

Ps. Sorry again about the dog incident.

TM

11-5-07: Rabbit Habit

Courtney on Rabbit Habit [v8]

As some of you know Courtney is back in Cali after a recent trip back east were she got engaged to one Randy Puro. Now that she is back where else would she rather be then bouldering in Yosemite with her peeps. Here she is sending Rabbit Habit for the first time in supreme style. In typical Yosemite sandbag fashion Courtney thought Rabbit Habit should be downgraded to v6 with the new beta. LOL...

Rabbit Habit is located at the LeConte Cave boulder. The first move involves a huge/cramped 5ft dyno to a slopper. So far shorter people have been stumped until the ladies unlocked a small crimper, which allowed them to readjust their right hand to an undercling and then make the reach. It’s not over after that so don’t give up the ship. The top is tenuous and a little reachy. Good work Courtney!

This is also the finish of Narcissus [v11?]. More can be found on that climb here.
http://betabase.blogspot.com/2006/07/7-22-06-narcissus.html

- TM