Thursday, November 17, 2005
11-17-05: Scissors for Lefty
Randy on Scissors for Lefty [v12?]
photo: Lyn Verinsky
There happens to be a great problem hidden away in the middle of all the Camp 4 bouldering. I know a passed it along the trail about a million times before I found it. I brushed the holds thinking that it couldn't be too hard, but then Randy and I tried it. There wasn't an easy move on it! Your left hand grabs small crimps and your right hand grabs a sloping rail. It's pretty long (12 moves), technical (you could fall off any of them) and absolutely a great problem. Randy managed to get the FA last spring and to my knowledge has not seen a second ascent. Randy never mentioned a grade, but my best guess is about v12.
The problem is down and to the right of what we call the "Font Problem." If you don't know where that is find Swamp Thing, head left (around a boulder that leans onto the Swamp Thing boulder) and you will see a left trending rail. Sit start with a good left foot, right hand side pull and almost nothing left hand. Pull up and start having fun!