Tuesday, October 11, 2005

10-9-05: The Real Deal (aka The Frustration)


The Real Deal (aka The Frustration) [v10]

Dustin Sabo climbed this line near the end of 2003. There seems to be somewhat of a debate, however, about who climbed if first. I don't have any good info either way, so I'll put both sides.

Greg Loh named this boulder problem The Frustration because he was frustrated with people naming boulder problems before doing them, but of course this doesn't seem like the case. Might it also be because there are some really low percentage moves at the lip?

The problem is COOL. Try to make it down there on a cloudy day because it sits directly in the sun for most of the day. This problem is hidden just down the hill a little bit from White Lines.

******UPDATE******
Dustin Sabo posted this comment on 10-9-06:
WOW IT'S "THE REAL DEAL" NOT THE FRUSTRATION. HOW DARE YOU GREG!! NEVER NAME SOMEONE'S BOULDER PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IF YOUR GOING TO POST THIS ON THE INTERNET TRY GETTING YOUR FACTS STRAIT. ASK GREG IF WHEN HE FIRST WALKED UP TO IT IF IT ALREADY HAD CHALK ON IT. I KNOW IT DID I PUT IT THERE. ENOUGH IS ENOUGH, STOP WITH THIS BULL.

DUSTIN


Sorry Dustin, but I didn't have any contact information for you to verify or double check anything. Unfortunately, it's going to be hard to prove it either way, unless someone has some 'evidence'.

-Raza 11-10-06

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

WOW IT'S "THE REAL DEAL" NOT THE FRUSTRATION. HOW DARE YOU GREG!! NEVER NAME SOMEONE'S BOULDER PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IF YOUR GOING TO POST THIS ON THE INTERNET TRY GETTING YOUR FACTS STRAIT. ASK GREG IF WHEN HE FIRST WALKED UP TO IT IF IT ALREADY HAD CHALK ON IT. I KNOW IT DID I PUT IT THERE. ENOUGH IS ENOUGH, STOP WITH THIS BULL.

DUSTIN
DUSTIN

Anonymous said...

bullshit!!!!i went down there a long time ago with my friend stuart and tom fern at the end of 2003. they were there when i sent it. talk to them if you need proof.tom ferns # is (530) 414-4392. enough with this out of town "let me tell you something" bullshit!!! i found it, cleaned it, and climbed it first. i'm over this, i have been climbing in this area for 11 years. if you want to discuss this further call me at (775)356-5660.

dustin

bler said...

jeez Dustin, stop freaking out.. its a boulder problem, not the end of the world, who cares...

Anonymous said...

Ha ha ha!

I know a local down at Black Mountain that names a good number of his new lines "Undone Greg Loh Roof Project" to prevent anyone from getting bent... while intentionally bending those who feel the need to get bent.

D, I live in South Lake now, soon to be moving to Davis. Always looking for someone motivated to scrub "NEW" FA choss... and name them.

weschrist@hotmail.com

Anonymous said...

Hey guys....Well, Im not sure I can clear this up...but I can a least add some more mystery....Nearly 2 weeks after Greg had claimed the FA, Bruce Andrue and I made the trek that way. We happened to meet up with Dustin and a buddy of his (Stuart???) at the base of this problem. We chatted a while about the problem etc....

Dustin explained about the stand-up and that there was a sit to this problem as well. The initial move or two was the "Real-Deal". I mentioned that Greg told us to go and check this problem out (The Frustration), and was met with virtually no response.

Now here is where is gets curios. Dustin and buddy were currently trying the problem when we arrived. We asked if we could join, he and buddy obliged. After a number of tries, I nabbed the problem with Bruce looking close to follow. In the hour-and-a-half that Bruce and I were there, we witnessed neither Dustin nor buddy top out that problem...

There was no evidence that this problem was "in the bag" for anyone at the problem that day. Now granted it was pretty warm, but high-temps or not, that problem still saw at least one ascent that day.

For myself, I know that if I put up a problem (especially a good one) I have an intimate relationship with the moves (take from that what you will). They are essentially your moves (for awhile anyway). I can usually repeat them pretty handily.

Regardless of the name or FA artist (or never-ending "I did it first" battle), that problem is great..!! A great find and a great problem to repeat. I do applaud the discoverer and the FA-ist (no matter if it is one and the same)...

Joel Ruscher

Raza said...

Thanks for the additional history Joel. I guess that original dust up wall all for not?