11-3-14: Zero

Patti Phillips on Zero, v4

There was a previous post about the cool boulder problem Hero, v8 and there is a cool problem to the right that was not mentioned.  If you don't feel like being a "hero" you can bust right onto the slab for a more technical option.  It is still v4, and the upper bit is pretty thin, so you may still need to perform some "heroics" to top out...

It should be noted that another cool problem is nearby - towards El Cap.  Scott Frye's Army (SFA) is a tricky face climb also established in 2008.

-Raza

10-29-09: 601

Paul Barraza on the FA of 601 [v8]

The El Cap Boulder is a solitary boulder found near the parking at the "Devil's Elbow" along Northside Drive. The established problems on this boulder are tall, crimpy, and of very high quality. This past weekend a new problem, which had somehow lain dormant all this time, was added to the boulder. Paul and I cleaned the obvious arete to the left of Zodiac [v10] thinking a compression problem would be a nice contrast to all of the crimping on the boulder. It turns out 601 is more of a complimentary piece than a contrast.

As usual these days, Paul was the first to make his way to the top with Scott and myself close on his heels. Thanks to Scott for providing the video. In regard to the grade, [v8] seems to be fair, though it may feel a touch easier or harder depending on your height (typical).

-Justin

12-6-2008 Thanksgiving Sendfest

Well, this past week has seen several ascents of some cool boulder problems and since it seems folks enjoy watching video, I'm posting 'em. Was it the ham and Thanksgiving festivities that brought on this onslaught of sendage? I'm not sure, but whatever the cause, the result was awesome to watch. First on the send rampage was Paul bagging Shadow Warrior in Candyland. Truly a beautiful boulder in a picturesque setting with lots of great energy from the crew! You all know about this problem from a previous post (here), so without further ado, here's the send: (love those scissor kicks!)



Paul Barraza on Shadow Warrior [v12]

Courtney got in on the boulder crushing as well by dispatching Zodiac [v10] and Tap Dance [v10] in short order. Zodiac is a crimpy face climb located on the El Cap Boulder along with such classics as Spock Was Here [v6] and some other reachy, dihedral climb whose name I can't recall at the moment (really classic, huh?). Anyway, it was an inspiring night send of a damn tall boulder problem so props to her! And I know Courtney would kill me for not mentioning that the send was much assisted by the outrageously good beta provided by crimp-meister Natasha Barnes.


Courtney Hemphill on Zodiac [v10] FFA?

Tap Dance is a slightly less inspiring line - okay, it's kind of a butt dragger and doesn't have any kind of line at all, but it's still darn fun climbing. Also in contrast to Zodiac, the crux moves are on slopers and technical heel hooks - super cool. It's a rare boulder problem in Yosemite that doesn't require a load of Organic pads to make safe, so for that alone, this problem is a gem. Located on the Wine Boulder, Tap Dance starts sitting matched on an obvious side-pull. Tall people should disregard the beta used below, but for shorties, it's pure brilliance.



Courtney Hemphill on Tap Dance [v10] FFA?

Finally, yesterday Paul ticked off a surprise send of Yabo Roof [v12] made famous in Dosage V. What an awesome climb! After being disappointed by it being wet the week before, we hiked out with some trepidation. Fortunately, all concern was immediately dispelled; conditions couldn't have been more ideal. So Paul, without a fuss, sent on his second try of the day. Sorry for my shaky camera-work, I have excuses, but I won't bore you with them. Kevin came incredibly close to sticking the crux sequence for a double send, but he opted to create more drama by waiting to dispatch. Yes, Justin, you would have run off to puke in the trees if you had seen how close he got.



Paul Barraza on Yabo Roof [v12]

- Lyn

11-4-08: SFA

Lyn Verinsky on Scott Frye's Army [v8]

Behind such notable climbs as Hero and Zero, hides another good problem called Scott Frye's Army. It starts on a blunt arete and climbs up a spartan face in classic Yosemite style: crimpy and technical. The first move sets the tone: a desperate slap from two bad side-pull slopers to a good edge. While the hard climbing is mostly in the beginning, it never really lets up, either.

To find the problem, walk around the Hero boulder and it is hard to miss.

-Raza

3-12-08: Hero & Others

Randy Puro on Hero, v8

What a great weekend! Several new problems were established, the weather was beautiful and everyone in the crew finished a problem they'd never climbed before. One excellent new line that was done by Paul and Randy is called "Hero" from the sit and "Crouching Spotter, Hidden Sloper" from the stand. Located in the shadow of El Cap, this climb tackles a cool arete that has surprisingly fun and powerful moves. The crux involves a poor right hand sloper and a tenuous move to a left hand jug. Randy makes the crux look easy in the video, but there was plenty of blowing off the top. The SDS tacks on only a few moves, but manages to add considerably to the burn at the crux. Possible grades are v7 for the stand and v8 for the sit.


Randy Puro on Jet Li, v6

On Sunday, we ended up at the Bruce Lee boulder spotting Randy on a very inspiring send of Jackie Chan. It was the first time I'd ever seen anyone get established on that problem, much less do any moves. The surprises didn't end there, though. Just to the right of Bruce Lee is another problem that I had never noticed before, perhaps given the lack of any discernible holds. Jet Li is an excellent, albeit sharp, climb that starts on the slab on the right side of the Bruce Lee arete and ends on Bruce Lee. The start is the crux for both tall and short due to a dirth of good feet and the high top adds a little spice to the end. Here's another video of Randy (it's a good thing he's so photogenic) sending the problem.

-Lyn