tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-106896222024-03-14T00:49:55.597-07:00| BetaBase |Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyondRazahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.comBlogger158125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-43254013507467140392017-11-06T19:05:00.000-08:002017-11-06T23:32:49.177-08:0011-6-17: Lower Yosemite Falls<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I recently explored some boulders near Lower Yosemite Falls and found and climbed some fun "new" lines. Some of them may have been climbed before, but it was a bit hard to tell. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I've been thinking about different ways to share information here on BetaBase, and on this trip I experimented with the GAIA GPS app and iPhone photo markup. Hopefully, you will find this method informative and easy to use.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A: Hands Solo, v2/3; Start with opposing sidepulls, climb to sharp point, then to top.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">B: Wookie Wall, v0/1; Start in crack, climb to apex.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Second Boulder</b></span><br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jzDMhpN7K98/WgFamSmgxNI/AAAAAAAAlro/qXp6mcdjWaAwRVPFTG83SRkUGith1HSwgCLcBGAs/s1600/f82b417d18af33598c96039a45caa0f0.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jzDMhpN7K98/WgFamSmgxNI/AAAAAAAAlro/qXp6mcdjWaAwRVPFTG83SRkUGith1HSwgCLcBGAs/s400/f82b417d18af33598c96039a45caa0f0.jpg" /></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">C: Ranko, 4/5; Low start with RH pinch and low left sloper, move to undercling then climb angular prow.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">D: Beast Mode, v2/3; Start on high ledge ~7', campus to lip then follow lip left and mantel when above adjacent boulder.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A: Crusty, v5/6; Sit with good undercling, climb up and through offwidth, and a chockstone finish.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arimo" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">-Raza</span></span><br />
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-11128090510121746322015-02-16T12:51:00.001-08:002015-02-16T13:02:20.597-08:002-16-15: Zephyr<div style="text-align: left;">
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Keenan Takahashi on the first ascent of Zephyr, v12 (photo: Spenser Tang-Smith of the RV Project)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Yosemite has been a place that people have been bouldering for more that 50 years. How can it be that half a century later, world class boulder problems are still being established? There are many factors, including the use of crash pads, but one factor may be that the older generation of enterprising climbers just weren't tilting their heads high enough. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It seems that the new vanguard of boulders, with limber necks and unbridled enthusiasm, don't seem to mind topping out boulders with 30 feet of air between their heels and the crash pad "landing." An example of this new Vanguard is Keenan Takahashi and his new skyscraper of a problem, Zephyr, v12. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Located in the Crumbs, and just a stone's throw from highway 140, this problem starts at an obvious head-height rail. The crux moves are right in the beginning, a v11 bulge on angled sloper rails. Then comes a technical face, checking in at v9; but that just leads to the mental crux, a balancy and slopey v7 arete encounter with your heels easily 25 feet above the landing. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">For the record, Keenan didn't give the problem a grade, but in our discussions, v12 seemed to make sense to me. It will be interesting to see what other ascensionists feel. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">ALL PHOTOS: Spenser Tang-Smith of the RV Project</span><br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-62294919333647240202015-01-21T22:24:00.003-08:002015-01-21T22:41:07.704-08:001-21-15: The Rift<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="288" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/117457224?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="512"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/117457224"></a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Lyn Barraza climbing The Rift, v8</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Happy New Year, here is one of the better new problems put up in Yosemite recently. Put up last year by Southern Nevada Bouldering guidebook author Tom Moulin, The Rift follows and obvious rib facing the road on one of the "Big Three" boulders at The Crumbs. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It starts on an obvious square-cut jug in the low rail, climbs up to a tricky lip encounter, and then finishes on a balancy arete feature with great slopers. To add a little spice, the last move is a committing reach to another square-cut jug. Everyone I have seen do this climb, has done it slightly differently, and Lyn shows good shorty beta in the video. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I also put up a right start, which starts sitting on the right arete and climbs into The Rift at the lip encounter. I called it Schism and it seemed a shade harder (v9?) and while it is not as direct at the original problem, the start moves are fun none-the-less.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">To find the problem, look to your left as you enter <a href="http://betabase.blogspot.com/search?q=crumbs" target="_blank">The Crumbs</a>, the bouldering area below the Cookie Cliff. The Rift will be plainly visible, just be careful as you walk in, as there may be a bit of poison oak surrounding the landing. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">-Raza</span><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-68347351220481133572014-11-18T12:26:00.001-08:002014-11-18T12:29:08.433-08:0011-18-14: Raggedy Anne<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="288" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/3932295?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="512"></iframe><br />Randy Puro on the first ascent of Raggedy Anne [v9] circa 2009</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: verdana;">To stay with the recent theme, here is another problem from the Horse Trail. Located just on the north side of the trail between Cerberus and 1-inch Punch, this technical and slopey problem has a spicy finish. Definitely better to try in the shade and with a good spot for confidence. There is a boulder in the landing zone that can be disconcerting, but I never have seen anyone fall on it. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: verdana;">GPS: 37.745344, -119.562619</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: verdana;">-Raza </span><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-20284592008131491212014-11-10T14:07:00.000-08:002014-11-12T14:17:06.655-08:0011-10-14: Cerberus Right<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/4143443?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Paul Barraza on the first ascent of Cerberus Right [v9] circa April 2009</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: verdana;">Here is another blast from the past. Out on the Horse Trail lies a hidden gem amongst the trees. This was a team affair, as I did the right exit, Randy Puro did the left exit and Justin Alarcon did the middle (direct) exit. Hence the name Cerberus, or three-headed monster. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: verdana;"><br />The problem is located on the Horse Trails in the general area between Kauk Face and Raggedy Anne. It is up the hill from the trail, so it may take a bit of hunting around. Well worth a search. For the less adventurous types here are the GPS coordinates: 37.745549, -119.564260.</span><br />
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Patti Phillips on Zero, v4<br />
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There was a previous post about the cool boulder problem <a href="http://betabase.blogspot.com/2008/03/3-12-08-hero-others.html" target="_blank">Hero, v8</a> and there is a cool problem to the right that was not mentioned. If you don't feel like being a "hero" you can bust right onto the slab for a more technical option. It is still v4, and the upper bit is pretty thin, so you may still need to perform some "heroics" to top out...<br />
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It should be noted that another cool problem is nearby - towards El Cap. <a href="http://betabase.blogspot.com/2008/11/date-sfa.html" target="_blank">Scott Frye's Army</a> (SFA) is a tricky face climb also established in 2008.<br />
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-Raza<br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-29898260479307879692014-10-23T15:05:00.000-07:002014-11-03T18:58:11.993-08:0010-23-14: Deliverance<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="667" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/109865827" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />
Beth Rodden on Deliverance, v8<br />
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BetaBase is officially out of hibernation mode, as things are starting to cool down a bit. There is some catching up to do with old posts, and here is a video of beth climbing Deliverance, v8 at the Lost Boulders. <br />
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There aren't too many hard crack boulder problems in Yosemite. In fact, there are basically 3: Bachar Cracker, v4; Deliverance, v8; and Sasquatch, v11.<br />
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The boulder can be a bit hard to find. The Cedar Boulder is a good reference point, but you have to meander into the woods from there. Here are the GPS coordinates to punch into your smart phone: 37.720655, -119.616680.<br />
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-Raza<div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-25793431272173332372014-04-21T10:22:00.001-07:002014-04-21T10:27:21.345-07:004-21-14: Single Subject<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/91952316" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Joel Ruscher on Single Subject [v9]</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">After a bit of a hiatus, Joel Ruscher is back in the game. A few weekends back, Joel nabbed the first ascent of this cool squeeze arete. As you may have gathered from the name, the climb is deceptively simple, and you feel like you could stick the pinch every go (until you don't). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">The problem is located just to the right of the Infamous Dark Crystal problem at the Ahwahnee boulders. This time, we have video proof...</span><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-52244859034062471902014-04-15T07:23:00.001-07:002014-04-15T07:23:58.790-07:004-15-14: Sasquatch<div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Randy Puro on Sasquatch, v11</span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Most scientists discount the existence of Bigfoot (Sasquatch) and consider it to be a combination of folklore, misidentification, and hoax rather than a living animal. [wikipedia]</span></div>
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Much like Bigfoot, ascents of Sasquatch are rare as it is one of the hardest pure crack boulder problems around. Our visits to the valley have been rare as well, after our son was born - but that is a different story.<br />
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Randy has been on a tear and sent Sasquatch last December. It must be hard at his point for home to find established boulder problems that he hasn't done yet. </div>
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<br /></div>
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If you are feeling like a stone master, go to the back side of the LeConte boulder to test your mettle. </div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-41926598297259978142012-12-19T10:51:00.002-08:002022-02-24T11:13:43.882-08:0012-19-12: Pinball Wizard Revisted<iframe allow="autoplay; fullscreen; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/4140741?h=e56d8ba40f&title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="640"></iframe>
<p><span style="font-family: verdana; font-size: small;">Theo Merrin on Pinball Wizard [v6]</span></p>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Since it seems that Pinball Wizard has become fashionable again, I thought I would post a video to update the <a href="http://betabase.blogspot.com/2006/05/5-14-06-pin-ball-wizard.html" target="_blank">original post</a>, which only had pictures. Pinball Wizard is a climb that demands more skill than strength, and many people will find it difficult to trust the smear at the crux lip encounter. Don't let the name scare you, I haven't seen anyone bounce of the back wall...yet....</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">-Raza</span></span>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-49463578977009991652012-06-28T14:43:00.000-07:002012-06-28T16:39:22.484-07:006-28-12: Goldilocks<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="288" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/4720662" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="512"></iframe><br />Raza on the first ascent of Goldilocks [v9]<br /><br />Here is a blast from the past. I got the FA in May of 2009. This is a problem in Bridalveil facing the Meat & Potatoes wall. Not many holds, but just enough to get you by. (You can say that about many Yosemite boulder problems, though) It all boils down to a dyno to a decent edge, but you have to grab the hold <i>just right,</i> hence the name: Goldilocks.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="288" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/44897763?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="512"></iframe></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: verdana; font-size: x-small;">Here is Randy Puro on the second ascent.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">-Raza</span></span><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-86881570133884310062012-06-19T10:37:00.000-07:002015-02-09T21:31:04.602-08:006-19-12: Wild Pack of Family Dogs<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/43945268?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Lyn Barraza climbing Wild Pack of Family Dogs [v7]</span><br /><br /><br /> Went climbing in Tahoe the last few weekends and checked out the Beavers for the first time. Seems like every time I go to Tahoe a new area pops up. Serious props to all the Tahoe guys who are out exploring and finding new stuff.<br /><br /><br /> The Beavers has a fairly good concentration of boulders, so it is easy to spend a day there. One of the better climbs I thought was Wild Pack of Family Dogs, v7. Just wait until the shade arrives.<br /><br /><br /> The first move is pretty big, if you are shorter, so it was pretty cool to see Lyn make the span. Thanks also to Evan for inspiring me to keep posting on BetaBase.<br /><br /><br /> -Raza</span><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-37675712699516874842012-01-26T13:28:00.001-08:002012-06-28T14:30:39.195-07:00One Amazing Fall<div><span>This fall season might have been one of the best on record. There was a freak storm in late October, but after that it didn't rain until we got 5 inches last weekend. The highs were in the 40s and there was so much climbing going on, I really didn't get that much footage. </span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span>Enter Kyle O'Meara. A recent transplant from Washington, he had quite a fall season taking full advantage of the great weather and a his first season in a new bouldering playground. Now that he's done most of the classics, it time for him to start putting up some of his own!</span></div><span><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/35347759?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="512" height="384" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></span><div><span>Panic Room [v9] & King Air [v10]</span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/34526368?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="512" height="384" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></span></div><div><span>Tom Sawyer [v10] & Pine Box [v10]</span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/32356969?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="512" height="384" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></span></div><div><span>Heart of Darkness [v9], Good Vibrations [v11] & Diesel Power [v10]</span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/31183725?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="512" height="384" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></span></div><div><span>The Force [v9], Wall to Wall Carpet [v9] & Bruce Lee [v8]</span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span>-Raza</span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-36837488333684092872011-12-14T12:02:00.000-08:002011-12-14T12:17:08.581-08:00Action Alert - Act today to help preserve bouldering in Yosemite<span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JokpFgeWW3Q/TukBaq34TCI/AAAAAAAAk_8/4oMGa18kYTE/s1600/act%2Bnow.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 388px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JokpFgeWW3Q/TukBaq34TCI/AAAAAAAAk_8/4oMGa18kYTE/s400/act%2Bnow.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5686077562228853794" /></a><br /></span><p class="p1"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></p><p class="p1"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">TODAY IS THE LAST DAY the National Park Service is accepting comments on the Merced River Plan (MRP). Please follow this <a href="http://parkplanning.nps.gov/commentForm.cfm?documentID=43850">LINK</a> and copy and paste the text below to help preserve bouldering access in Yosemite Valley. Please post comments to this post when you have submitted your comments, so I can stop bugging you!!</span></span></p><p class="p1"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></p><p class="p1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><b>*************************************************************************************</b></span></p><p class="p1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><b>* Please cut & paste the text below in the the first field * Alter or add as you like *</b></span></p><p class="p1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "></span></p><p class="p1" style="font-size: 16px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><b>*************************************************************************************</b></span></span></p><p></p><p class="p1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; ">Here are my comments regarding the Issues addressed in the Merced River Plan Workbook:</span></p> <p class="p1"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- Issue 7: I prefer option C - the only two options provided in the MRP Workbook to reduce river bank impacts at the Upper and Lower Pines Campgrounds are to eliminate or relocate campsites that are near the river. I believe that before these options are considered, efforts should first be made to fence and sign the areas of the riverbank to be protected, as has been done at Devil’s Elbow, and then design river access points in resilient locations and restore riparian areas to natural conditions.</span></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- Issue 9: I prefer option B - more primitive / rustic camping should be created.</span></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- Issue 10: I prefer option C - replace existing bridges with foot bridges designed to enhance the free-flowing condition of the river.</span></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- Issue 12: I prefer option B - restore visitor use opportunities at upper and lower river campgrounds.</span></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- Issue 15: I prefer option A - the installation of a roundabout and under-crossing for pedestrians to relieve congestion.</span></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- Issue 19: I prefer option A - develop more camping to increase capacity.</span></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- Issue 20: I prefer option D - the installation of a pedestrian underpass to allow access to Lower Yosemite Falls. Relocating the lodge entrance or an overpass don’t seem practical and won’t work.</span></span></p> <p class="p4"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="s2">- Issue 22: I prefer option D - </span><span class="s1">the Merced River Gorge segment west of Pohono Bridge has a number of popular climbing areas, including Cookie Cliff, the Rostrum, Reed’s Pinnacle, Elephant Rock, and many others bouldering areas. Climber parking and approach access to these areas should be retained and improved to reduce impacts. Curbing to formalize parking areas may eliminate many parking areas for smaller climbing and bouldering areas that planners might not know about.</span></span></p> <p class="p4"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- Issue 23: I prefer option A - develop more camping to increase capacity</span></span></p> <p class="p3"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span"></span></span></p><p class="p1"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>*************************************************************************************</b></span></span></span></span></p><p></p><p></p><p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">* Please cut & paste the text below in the the second field * Alter or add as you like *</span></span></p><p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span"></span></span></p><p class="p1"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>*************************************************************************************</b></span></span></span></span></p><p></p><p></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">As a climber who boulders in Yosemite Valley frequently, here are some additional thoughts:</span></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- The bouldering in Yosemite Valley is universally regarded as some of the best in world. The unique combination of rock quality, rock features, boulder sizes and quantity make the bouldering in Yosemite an Outstandingly Remarkable Value (ORV) that should be protected. Additionally, climbing has a long a significant history in Yosemite Valley.</span></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span"> - Bouldering requires a large amount of gear that makes using shuttle services impractical. Therefore maintaining and increasing the level of recreational parking is critical. </span></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- The bouldering at Camp 4 is considered the birthplace of modern bouldering and has the largest quantity of all the bouldering areas in Yosemite Valley. The site of the former gas station was previously used by boulders for parking but has since been used as a staging area for the recent road improvement projects. I strongly recommend this area be reconfigured into a day use parking when the road improvements are completed.</span></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- The recent reduction of parking in the Ahwahnee Hotel lot has adversely effected climbers as there is a large bouldering area at the base of the talus field and many climbing areas (Royal Arches, etc) are access from this point.</span></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- A permitted parking system would adversely affect those who boulder because of the quantity of gear required for our recreation. There are no reasonable alternatives to transporting the gear in our cars and parking near the bouldering areas.</span></span></p> <p class="p6"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="s2">- </span><span class="s1">The Park should ensure climbing needs are addressed in the MRP, particularly parking locations throughout the Valley and the Merced Gorge segments. Where appropriate, roadside parking should be paved to reduce impacts and moved off the shoulder to improve safety. </span></span></p> <p class="p6"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span">- More access options to lesser attractions in the Park and surrounding area rather than regulatory solutions such as day-use reservations, parking permits and closures. All reasonable day-use parking facilities should be developed or improved in the Valley, including Camp 6, Curry Village, and the wilderness parking lot.</span></span></p><p class="p6"><span class="s1"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D4GTWoClITo/TukCsmEVrjI/AAAAAAAAlAI/Ch6233Kru9E/s1600/urgent.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D4GTWoClITo/TukCsmEVrjI/AAAAAAAAlAI/Ch6233Kru9E/s400/urgent.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5686078969688206898" style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 400px; " /></a></span></p><p class="p6"><span class="s1"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></p><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-46648344252819993252011-11-18T15:38:00.001-08:002012-06-28T14:30:55.365-07:00Merced River Plan: Update<span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-espycBo3-uM/TsbsjuhvpGI/AAAAAAAAk_s/h4yiAwmtNOA/s1600/el%2Bcap.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-espycBo3-uM/TsbsjuhvpGI/AAAAAAAAk_s/h4yiAwmtNOA/s400/el%2Bcap.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676484478876230754" /></a><br /></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Merced River & El Cap</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Climbers interested in Yosemite issues should take a look at the MRP <a href="http://www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/upload/Merced-Wkbk-web_interactive.pdf">workbook</a> and get your comments in by DECEMBER 14th (it was recently pushed back from November 30th). The Access Fund's positions on appropriate MRP planning alternatives are as follows:</span></div><div><ul><li><span class="Apple-style-span">Yosemite planners should work to reverse lodging/camping ratio (currently 60/40) to provide more camping and less emphasis on lodging (move lodging to the park boundaries). Providing more camping in the Park, and limiting lodging in the park to rustic/primitive accommodations, is consistent with the NPS's own management policies that promote visitors having a direct relationship to Park resources. Adjusting this ratio would also be more consistent with a national park instead of the luxury resort or amusement park that Yosemite often resembles.</span></li><li><span class="Apple-style-span">Park planners should include in the MRP the several "improvements" for Camp 4 that were contemplated in Lodge Redevelopment Plan (which was stalled by the MRP litigation). These improvements include showers, fencing to encourage vegetation, limited loud bus noise, foul weather cooking pavilion and communal fire, and a nearby location for Ken Yager's Yosemite climbing museum. In addition to focusing on more camping in the Park, planners should also improve the quality of the camping experience, especially at locations such as Camp 4 where climbers are forced into highly dense and low-quality campsites. Planners should recognize the historic importance of this campground and improve some of the basic amenities such as the bathrooms. </span></li><li><span class="Apple-style-span">Yosemite planners should restore as much camping as possible to sites that have already been disturbed such as the Pine and Oak lodging units and the Rivers Campground that were destroyed in the 1997 flood. These areas in particular could be engineered with the recognition that they will again be flooded. Plan maps should indicate flood plain areas where shallow flood depths and low water velocities make the development of campsites feasible. Planners should establish diversity of camping opportunities (including walk-in, walk-to, and a "drop-off" your gear but walk-in model) and not just limit opportunities to drive-in campgrounds (where RV generators, for example, impact the experience) or the ghetto at Camp 4. The Park should bring campsite numbers at least back to pre-flood totals as contemplated in Yosemite's General Management Plan (there's currently a shortfall of 300 campsites), but any new sites should be focused on placement in the East Valley so that the largely undisturbed areas west of Camp 4 don't also suffer from campfire smoke and new infrastructure. </span></li><li><span class="Apple-style-span">The Park should ensure climbing needs are addressed in the MRP, particularly parking locations throughout Valley and the Merced Gorge segment (Cookie Cliff, Arch Rock, etc.).</span></li><li><span class="Apple-style-span">Park planners should ensure that measures to restore or harden El Cap Meadow are not unsightly from above. The MRP should consider hybrid approach for boardwalk further west of typical climber use areas, and use fencing and other ways to focus people onto a few discrete paths into Meadow. The MRP should ensure that climbers can continue their traditional use of the Meadow.</span></li><li><span class="Apple-style-span">Park planners should ensure that there is adequate day use parking while pursuing a range of transit strategies to reduce auto use in the Valley.</span></li><li><span class="Apple-style-span">The Plan should include a noise control element that addresses noise sources such as idling tour buses, motorcycles, trash collection, RV generators, the Green Dragon touring flatbeds and others.</span></li></ul><p></p><p style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-align: -webkit-auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); margin-left: 0.25in; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-align: -webkit-auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); margin-left: 0.25in; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-align: -webkit-auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); margin-left: 0.25in; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-align: -webkit-auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); margin-left: 0.25in; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-align: -webkit-auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); margin-left: 0.25in; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-align: -webkit-auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); margin-left: 0.25in; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-align: -webkit-auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); "><span class="Apple-style-span"><u></u> <u></u></span></p></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">I'm still working on a "voter's guide" the the workbook. Look for that in a bit...</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">-Raza</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><br /></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-82745191295250413802011-11-14T18:23:00.000-08:002012-06-28T14:30:55.371-07:00Merced River Plan: NPS wants your feedback<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5O07xB5qupU/TsHNfiXHQII/AAAAAAAAk_g/wdDxow-RWvo/s1600/mrp_orv_main.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 280px; height: 170px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5O07xB5qupU/TsHNfiXHQII/AAAAAAAAk_g/wdDxow-RWvo/s400/mrp_orv_main.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5675042947146924162" /></a><br /><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">In case you haven't heard, the National Park service has been working on the Merced River Plan for many years now. They have been sued and had to rework the plan TWICE. If they don't succeed this time it is likely that congress will get involved and legislate a plan and nobody thinks that would be a good idea. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">I am currently looking over the pdf workbook to come up with some "talking points" that should be included to support and enhance bouldering in Yosemite Valley. Hopefully, I'll have something in a week or so. Check out the links below if you want to get started. <b>THE DEADLINE FOR FEEDBACK IS NOVEMBER 30TH</b>.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">This is the NPS link for information:</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">http://www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/mrp.htm</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">This is the link to the workbook:</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">http://www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/upload/Merced-Wkbk-web_interactive.pdf</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Looking for other ways to help? Here is a short list:</span></div><div><ul><li><span class="Apple-style-span">Look over the workbook and post suggestions of good ideas on BetaBase</span></li><li><span class="Apple-style-span">Encourage friends and family to do the same</span></li><li><span class="Apple-style-span">Spread the word on facebook / twitter / climbing blogs / etc.</span></li><li><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.4954061/k.9AF8/Join_or_Give.htm">Join</a> the Access Fund</span></li><li><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="https://www.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_flow&SESSION=HEl9w6YRrz0-cEGFUeIxk5RY4Sb9XKhou2J-qDqXgXjxaE4kAQ0o6wohGYy&dispatch=5885d80a13c0db1f8e263663d3faee8db2b24f7b84f1819343fd6c338b1d9d60">Donate</a> to the Yosemite Climber's Association</span></li></ul></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">-Raza</span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-8267602706409036602011-11-07T14:57:00.000-08:002023-05-04T16:46:59.860-07:0011-7-11: Post Send Depression<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="288" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/31415427?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="512"></iframe><br /><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Paul Barraza on Post Send Depression [v7</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana; font-size: small;">]</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Here is a problem that was hidden in plain sight. Located on the B1 boulder at Sentinel just between the Jungle Book and the down climb. Perhaps the two-tiered landing was a deterrent, but with the right pad setup, it is pretty safe. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">The problem climbs up a faint dihedral using an unusual assortment of holds. The only downward facing holds are at the top, and they are unnervingly slopey. (hence my fear scream at the top - doh). I'll be honest, the rock is not the best, but once this thing cleans up it could possibly be a classic? Bring a bunch of pads and decide for yourself!</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">-Raza</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">UPDATE [2023]: The holds at the top have crumbled a bit, and the problem is harder now.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-65871641126938132862011-11-06T14:35:00.000-08:002011-11-14T22:02:28.406-08:0011-6-11: Riverside Rock Update<span class="Apple-style-span"><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/30348797?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="512" height="288" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Justin Alarcon on </span><span class="Apple-style-span">Budōkan [v9] at Riverside Rock</span></div> <div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">We checked out Riverside Rock a few weeks back and I thought an update would be appropriate. Thanks again to Ryan Alonzo for sending in the information that was used to create a previous post. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">All the problems on the east face of this boulder are really fun. (We didn't try the problems on the other side) The climbing holds are bigger than average and the wall is steeper than average, making for some fun, gymnastic climbing. I would recommend stopping there on the way home some day, as it is right off the road.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">For those of us who climbed there, we thought the grades were a little off, compared to the rest of the valley. Here are the grades from our limited consensus:<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Karate: v8</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">7up: v5</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Capoeria: v5</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Balance of Opposites: v6</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"> <p class="p1">Budōkan: v9 (Justin added the sit start to Karate)</p></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">I contacted Jacob Copeland, a longtime valley developer and it turns out he climbed all the lines a few years back!! He didn't name anything and thought the names that Justin and Ryan came up with were great. He also said that he put up a sit start to 7up - though I have a hard time visualizing how the sit start would link into that problem. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">-Raza</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: arial, sans-serif; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-84404114506928797672011-08-04T08:54:00.000-07:002011-11-07T14:59:05.392-08:008-4-11: Back to the Future<span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1-zt-RYnmK8/TjrChTQR4QI/AAAAAAAAk6E/HgJBscJMbDo/s1600/PL051118_010.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1-zt-RYnmK8/TjrChTQR4QI/AAAAAAAAk6E/HgJBscJMbDo/s400/PL051118_010.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637031760967622914" /></a><br /></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Tim Medina on Notta Traverse [v7]</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Way back in 2005, Andres Mueller told me about a cool new boulder near the Saddle Boulder in Tahoe. He had done a cool problem called Back to the Future, v9 and said there was much more potential, hence the name: The Future Boulder. I checked it out and soon showed Scott Frye and Tim Medina, who did much of the development. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">To get to the Future Boulder, drive through the tunnels as you would to get to the Saddle Boulders. After you get through the tunnels, there will be a road off to the left. Sometimes the road is blocked by boulders after a few hundred feet so you may have to park right there but you might be able to drive down to the boulder. Either way you get there, go down the road and the boulder will be on your left just before a wood bridge. The boulder is hard to see from the road, but it is there.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>LEFT SIDE</b></span></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qAtuNwEnpVM/TjsVnbvVVGI/AAAAAAAAk6c/b38WLqrnizQ/s1600/Future%2BTopo_Left.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qAtuNwEnpVM/TjsVnbvVVGI/AAAAAAAAk6c/b38WLqrnizQ/s400/Future%2BTopo_Left.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637123125789676642" style="cursor: pointer; width: 512px; height: 341px; " /></span></a></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; "><div>1. <b>Warm up, v0</b></div><div>2. <b>Notta Warm Up, v2/3</b> Sit start to the warm up.</div><div>3. <b>Notta Traverse, v7</b> Start at the right side of the large shelf and follow the crack system left.</div><div>4. <b>Blast from the Past, v3 </b>Climbs center of the face, high and committing </div><div>5. <b>Slippery Slope, v6 </b>The crux is getting established on the slippery slope...</div><div>6. <b>Super Slippery Slope, v8 </b> Start as for Back to the Future and climbing into Slippery Slope.</div><div>7. <b>Back to the Future, v9 </b>Start of left side of big shelf, climb up and right to a good shelf.</div></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>RIGHT SIDE</b></span></div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MluwoH9kiBQ/TjsVn1sug1I/AAAAAAAAk6k/s9GadLP3ue4/s1600/Future%2BTopo_Right.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MluwoH9kiBQ/TjsVn1sug1I/AAAAAAAAk6k/s9GadLP3ue4/s400/Future%2BTopo_Right.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637123132758066002" style="cursor: pointer; width: 512px; height: 341px; " /></span></a></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: arial, sans-serif; "><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Daniel Soto eating the cookie. He was the inspiration for Marley Marathon</span></div><div style="font-size: 13px; "><br /></div><div style="font-size: 13px; ">8. <b>Super Crimper Roof, v?</b> Project</div><div style="font-size: 13px; ">9. <b>Name Unknown, v9</b> Start on shelf and finish at the lip, really cool moves.</div><div style="font-size: 13px; ">10. <b>Direct Finish Project, v?</b> The slab finish to #9, will be a mega classic.</div><div style="font-size: 13px; ">11. <b>Lucky Charms, v10</b> Start on #9, go right at the lip and finish on Marley Marathon.</div><div style="font-size: 13px; ">12. <b>Marley Marathon, v5 </b>Start sitting on a shelf, climb up diehedral and surmount bulge.</div><div style="font-size: 13px; "><br /></div><div style="font-size: 13px; ">Enjoy!</div><div style="font-size: 13px; "><br /></div><div style="font-size: 13px; ">-Raza</div></span></div><div><br /></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-15704650721477363652011-07-28T21:56:00.000-07:002011-11-07T15:05:51.514-08:007-28-11: Riverside Rock<span class="Apple-style-span"><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/24905863?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="512" height="288" frameborder="0"></iframe></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span">A short video by Ryan Alonzo</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">I got an email a while back from Ryan Alonzo with a link to the above video. This isn't a boulder that I've seen before, but it looks pretty cool. I talked to Jacob Copeland and it turns out that he had previously climbed some of the lines, so it would be interesting to hear his names / grades for the ones he did. Thank you Ryan for putting this together!! </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Here is the info:</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><div id="yui_3_2_0_5_1311910676876705"><span class="Apple-style-span">Directions: On northside drive about 1 mile west past el cap meadow there will be a paved pullout on the lefthand side of the street that is a view point for Bridalveil falls. Park at the first dirt pull out on the left past the view point. The boulder is next to the road 2 min walk west of pull out.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-size: 12px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; "><br /></div></div><div style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-size: 12px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-km8lA-zfFj4/TjJALIIBDMI/AAAAAAAAk5s/S4VK7XU4dMw/s1600/RS%2Bfront.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-km8lA-zfFj4/TjJALIIBDMI/AAAAAAAAk5s/S4VK7XU4dMw/s400/RS%2Bfront.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634636643697757378" style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px; " /></a></span></div><div style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-size: 12px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; "><br /></div><div style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-size: 12px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jEkB_ftR2f4/TjJAZyeL8dI/AAAAAAAAk50/uUOU-z6xdf4/s1600/RSback.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jEkB_ftR2f4/TjJAZyeL8dI/AAAAAAAAk50/uUOU-z6xdf4/s400/RSback.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634636895583203794" style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px; " /></a></span></div><div style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-size: 12px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; "><br /></div><div style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-size: 12px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-77TTT2uyJPo/TjJAhVVxH4I/AAAAAAAAk58/sTB-_vrsioM/s1600/riversiderk.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-77TTT2uyJPo/TjJAhVVxH4I/AAAAAAAAk58/sTB-_vrsioM/s400/riversiderk.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634637025202216834" style="cursor: pointer; width: 309px; height: 400px; " /></a></span></div><div style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-size: 12px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; "><br /></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-45890653979805184082011-06-01T22:36:00.000-07:002011-08-04T15:24:08.426-07:006-1-11: Aphrodite<span class="Apple-style-span" ><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/19152132?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="512" height="288" frameborder="0"></iframe></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" >Raza on Aphrodite [v5]</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" >Here is a great line that was put up this last winter. This was the last installment from the Crumbs, the bouldering area below the Cookie Cliff. It was hard to come up with a grade, since I am not a great crack climber. I managed to wedge my fingers just long enough to send the thing!</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" >Thanks for the vid Scott!</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" >-Raza</span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-66045379077013850202011-04-13T10:49:00.000-07:002011-04-13T10:53:45.469-07:004-13-11: Bipolar<span class="Apple-style-span" ><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/19152938?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="512" height="288" frameborder="0"></iframe></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" >Raza on the first ascent of Bipolar [v7]</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" >Here is another climb from The Crumbs and this one is right next to (facing) First Act. The problem is fiendishly simple: dyno then mantle. But once you try it, you find out quickly that it is not so simple...</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" >-Raza</span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-3353179477934503192011-03-08T16:25:00.000-08:002011-04-13T10:48:58.429-07:003-8-11: First Act<span class="Apple-style-span"><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/19153648?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="512" height="288" frameborder="0"></iframe></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Paul Barraza on the FA of First Act [v8]</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Things are getting a bit stale around here, so here is some footage of a first ascent I snagged between snow storms this winter. It is in the area we have dubbed the "Crumbs" as they are the base of the Cookie Cliff. There are a few established problems in the area that are cool as well. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">The problem starts sitting on a good sidepull feature and finishes on a good rail about 12' up. It is called First Act because the 30 foot second act is yet to be done. (Kevin Jorgeson, are you reading this?) The finish would be tall and committing with a thin technical section right after the big rail, that would be maybe v4x on its own right.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">-Raza</span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-57667164446409034242010-10-22T09:31:00.000-07:002010-10-22T09:45:58.770-07:0010-22-10: Four from the Valley<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/16082633?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="512" height="288" frameborder="0"></iframe></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Short video by Scott Chandler from his recent trip to the valley</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Here is a list of the problems in the video:</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Hammerhead</b>, v5 @ Camp 4: committing top with a bad landing, bring pads and spotters (and a good head).</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>A Walk in the Park</b>, v2 @ Cathedral: Another highball with a committing topout!</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Quasimodo</b>, v7 @ Cathedral: A new line that Scott just put up on the rim trail just west of the Cathedral boulder turn off. A tad reachy, but definitely an instant classic.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Unnamed</b>, v9? @ Cathedral: An unnamed line with the same start as ladder detail, but head out right and then back left at the lip. Never heard a name or a grade, but it is probably about v9ish. Anyone know the name, or have any ideas for a good name??</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Thanks for the video Scott!</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">-Raza</span></span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10689622.post-69426457623924916602010-10-08T13:19:00.000-07:002011-11-14T22:04:32.309-08:0010-8-10: Mirror Lake<div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK9_pejOeGI/AAAAAAAAYHI/OErhV-D0h1o/s1600/Mirror+Lake_1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK9_pejOeGI/AAAAAAAAYHI/OErhV-D0h1o/s400/Mirror+Lake_1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525775618359064674" /></span></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Colton working a short-lived project (Sweat Lodge)</span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Last June, valley local Colton Lindeman was nice enough to tour Scott Chandler and myself around some boulders he had been developing. The Mirror Lake boulders are a new area with plenty of potential. Here are some pics from our tour:</span></span></div><div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-E3zaXiqI/AAAAAAAAYHQ/CUIhrtRwBu4/s1600/Mirror+Lake_2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-E3zaXiqI/AAAAAAAAYHQ/CUIhrtRwBu4/s400/Mirror+Lake_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525781362035362466" /></a></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span">The warm up boulder</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-I6XEY28I/AAAAAAAAYIA/iWmDqSFn0Tc/s1600/Mirror+Lake_3.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-I6XEY28I/AAAAAAAAYIA/iWmDqSFn0Tc/s400/Mirror+Lake_3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525785804013099970" /></a></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><div><span class="Apple-style-span">Colton on a cool arete Hobbit [v3]</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-JnMTC3qI/AAAAAAAAYII/nPcbDQ7OmlA/s1600/Mirror+Lake_4.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-JnMTC3qI/AAAAAAAAYII/nPcbDQ7OmlA/s400/Mirror+Lake_4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525786574215896738" /></a></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-JnMTC3qI/AAAAAAAAYII/nPcbDQ7OmlA/s1600/Mirror+Lake_4.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a><span class="Apple-style-span">Colton on the highball arete Dead or Alive [v8]</span></span></div></span></span></span></div></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-KBng_iLI/AAAAAAAAYIQ/6lRjfF8v7WU/s1600/Mirror+Lake_5.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-KBng_iLI/AAAAAAAAYIQ/6lRjfF8v7WU/s400/Mirror+Lake_5.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525787028198754482" /></a><br /><span class="Apple-style-span">Scott on the FA of a new line (Sweat Lodge)</span></span></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-KWlWKu-I/AAAAAAAAYIY/1FSIXMm7yzA/s1600/Mirror+Lake_6.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-KWlWKu-I/AAAAAAAAYIY/1FSIXMm7yzA/s400/Mirror+Lake_6.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525787388393733090" /></a></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-KWlWKu-I/AAAAAAAAYIY/1FSIXMm7yzA/s1600/Mirror+Lake_6.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a><span class="Apple-style-span">Colton on a short and steep v6, one of the few problems that was established before his development.</span></span></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-KqdXGOaI/AAAAAAAAYIg/NF5cgXwxP1A/s1600/Mirror+Lake_7.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-KqdXGOaI/AAAAAAAAYIg/NF5cgXwxP1A/s400/Mirror+Lake_7.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525787729847531938" /></a></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_DmGMmYovwZM/TK-KqdXGOaI/AAAAAAAAYIg/NF5cgXwxP1A/s1600/Mirror+Lake_7.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a><span class="Apple-style-span">Colton trying a project close to Mirror Lake.</span></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><span class="Apple-style-span">To get to the Mirror Lake Boulders, park at the stables and hike out the paved road. Turn left at the fork in the road and turn right after 100 feet or so. That will take you to the warm up boulder. The rest of the boulders are all behind that, but because everything is so jumbled, it is impossible to give precise directions. Just go and have have fun exploring!</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><span class="Apple-style-span">-Raza</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Bouldering in Yosemite, Tahoe and beyond</div>Razahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17283410560112819936noreply@blogger.com0