5-6-09: Fluffy White Clouds

Justin Alarcon on the FA of Fluffy White Clouds, v6

Not a highball? Some Yosemite regulars would call this blasphemy. Others point to such fine problems as 'Tap Dance' [v10], 'Chocolate Bunny' [v6], and the 'Bear-Hug Mantel' [v4] as examples of how pleasant a little lowball action can be. To this end, I submit 'Fluffy White Clouds' [v5-7] for the community's approval. While it may not be as classic as the previously mentioned lines, it should be a nice addition to the Yosemite lowball circuit.

This problem is located on the small boulder adjacent to the 'Panic Room'[v9] boulder.

-Justin

1-23-09: Spiceberg

Raza on Spiceberg [v5]

Another cool line that went up this fall was Spiceberg. Ingar Shu, flashed the First Ascent which was not only pretty cool, but very prudent since falling at at the crux would most likely be bad for your health. The crux being some barn-door side pulls right below the good ledge. After getting on the classic Bishop highball Secrets of the Beehive, I realized that this thing is just as tall - if not taller. But the big difference on Spiceberg, is that you don't have to do that commiting heel hook by your head!

Spiceberg is on left side of the Curry Village tents. In that zone there is a huge boulder right next to the tents (where starfish is) and from that boulder you can see the Spiceberg boulder.

-Raza

11-9-08: Panic Room

Paul Barraza on Panic Room [v9]

Here is another great line that I realized was not on BetaBase. Last Spring Tim Medina put up a problem just west of the employee housing in Curry Village. Fun dynamic climbing leads into a slopey committing top-out. Good temperatures are key for the finish. Tim did it when the temps weren't all that great, hence the name!

To find the problem, park at the LeConte Memorial and walk towards curry. When you get to the employee housing, head up the hill into the woods and you will find the boulder.

-Raza

10-08-08: Start of the Fall Season

Rocktober: there's so much to love about this month, but nothing beats that first day back in the Valley after a four month hiatus. The temps were fine and we spent the day on nearly all new (to us) problems to get reacquainted with Yosemite granite after spending the summer on pale imitations. Here's a few videos of some problems at Curry.


Paul Barraza on Joe's Garage [v5]

On the other side of the boulder is another fun, and in my opinion, easier, climb called The Mechanic Direct that Paul insists on calling v5.



Paul Barraza on The Mechanic Direct [v5]

After the fun at Curry, we moved on to Paul's new problem, which has a post all of its own. In the same area is a new problem that Scott Chandler, a.k.a. Junior, put up a couple weekends ago; we're guessing the grade to be in the v3 range. Since we have video of that as well, here it is:




-Lyn

6-8-08: Live and Let Die & You Only Live Twice

On the eastern edge of Curry village uphill from the tent cabins lies an incredible boulder with two stellar problems on it. The problems start on a steep face; one on the left, one on the right. The left and right lines share the same tall and committing top-out but both are still unique and equally fun. The right line, You Only Live Twice, was the first to go and is probably a v8. The day I sent it, it was quite dreary and started to rain as I was topping out. Needless to say the down climb was not much of a down climb at all but rather a slip n' slide. Don't worry though, when its dry the down climb is a piece of cake. I came back a few days later and climbed the left problem, Live and Let Die, which is a bit harder making it v9.

To find the boulder, park at the eastern end of the Curry Village parking lot and hike straight uphill a couple hundred yards. You will pass several large boulders on the way up. The problems are located on the east side of the boulder between two trees. Sorry for the lack of better directions; GPS coordinates coming soon.


Raza sending You Only Live Twice [v8].


Scott with the FA of Live and Let Die [v9].

Cheers!
-Scott C.

4-28-08: Cougar

Sunday's search for cooler temps and more moderate climbing found us at the Curry boulders. A fun day of climbing some classics and scrubbing new problems culminated in Randy's awesome send of a listed "project" in the Yos Bouldering Guide. Whether a first ascent or not, it was the proverbial cherry atop the ice cream sunday we talked about incessantly, but never stopped climbing long enough to get. Oh yeah, for those who want to know, I forgot to ask Randy how hard it was, so no v-grade yet.



This problem is located on the Zorro boulder. Same start, but a lot more direct.
-Lyn

4-11-07: Sidewinder

Raza on Sidewinder [v7]

Junior (aka Scott Chandler) has been actively searching out new boulders and he found a gem over in Curry Village. I though it was more like v8/9 but maybe I'm just old. It's one of those problems where all the holds are facing left and you are doing everything you can do to go right. The footholds are basically the spots of granite that were cleaned off, so trying to use your feet is tricky as well. To top it of there is a hard mantel at the top. Normally you might throw a heel over, but the landing makes that way too scary. I ended up using Junior's beta: a no foot mantle and dyno right hand back to a jug! A crazy finish to a crazy cool problem.

The problem lies in Curry Village 'West'. Park as west a possible and follow these GPS coordinates:

37º 44.183 N, 119º 34.445 W

-Raza