2-9-09: Name this v4 (The Payback)

Andrew Descalso on the The Payback [v4]

A new president was recently inaugurated and in the spirit of democracy, I thought it would be cool to have the people vote on the name of a boulder problem. The arete to the left of Montezuma's Revenge was put up in the same time frame, but we failed to name it even though it is a worthy problem in its own right.

The other two problems on the boulder are Rubik's Revenge and Montezuma's Revenge.

Register your vote on the poll to the right. Let your voice be heard! If you think of one of your own, click 'other' and add a comment to this post. The polls will close February 23rd; don't be disenfranchised.

-Raza

Update: 3-2-09
Polls closed and 'The Payback was the winner. Below are the results.

1-23-09: Spiceberg

Raza on Spiceberg [v5]

Another cool line that went up this fall was Spiceberg. Ingar Shu, flashed the First Ascent which was not only pretty cool, but very prudent since falling at at the crux would most likely be bad for your health. The crux being some barn-door side pulls right below the good ledge. After getting on the classic Bishop highball Secrets of the Beehive, I realized that this thing is just as tall - if not taller. But the big difference on Spiceberg, is that you don't have to do that commiting heel hook by your head!

Spiceberg is on left side of the Curry Village tents. In that zone there is a huge boulder right next to the tents (where starfish is) and from that boulder you can see the Spiceberg boulder.

-Raza

1-5-09: Barrel of Laughs

Scott Chandler on Barrel of Laughs [v6]

Here's another cool problem to check out after the snows melt and things dry up. Barrel of Laughs is up the hill from the main Bridalveil boulder and was put up by Noah Kaufman last spring.

Also Happy New Years from BetaBase. Let's hope that 2009 is a great year for climbing. May everyone send their projects!

-Raza

12-22-08: Ataturk

Lyn Verinsky on Ataturk [v5]

Hidden on the far end of the main Bridalveil boulder, is a cool traverse (not always an oxymoron). It starts on underclings at the bottom of an unnamed seam problem (#6 on page 37 in new guide) but heads left on good holds and finishes on the v0.

Ataturk was named after Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey. I'm not sure why that popped into my head, but he is a pretty amazing man.


As many of you all know, the valley is currently blanketed by a good layer of snow. It looks like it might be time to start heading to Bishop, or farther south if things don't start to melt soon. I guess it is a testament to how much I like the valley, when I won't totally give up on the season when the web cam looks like this!



-Raza

12-15-2008 Changing Corners

For anyone who climbs in the Valley, these are dark times. The weather seriously crapped out on Friday, but even so, a hardcore group of us hit the road early Saturday AM in hopes that the reality wasn't as bad as the forecast. Receiving the message from a kind soul in the Valley that "it's wet, there's an inch of snow on the road and it's currently snowing" fifteen minutes out of Oakdale, we reluctantly turned around and headed home. The next couple weeks look grim: snow and rain.

So now what? Although I don't have any video footage of Drive On (isn't that one of the problems shown in that Dosage V movie?), I do have a couple clips of another awesome climb. Located on the same boulder as Shadow Warrior in Candyland, Changing Corners is an enigmatic piece of climbing that is greatly satisfying to unlock. It's all about one key sloper that feels incredibly insecure until your right foot gets about elbow level. Use the first video as a lesson on what NOT to do at the top. Amazingly, Mike was completely unscathed from his crazy fall and after taking a few more, only slightly less spectacular, diggers, sent the rig.

Mike Wickwire on Changing Corners [v8]

And now here's video of Tim Medina making it look easy with his impeccable Yosemite footwork and technique.

 

Tim Medina on Changing Corners [v8]

- Lyn

12-6-2008 Thanksgiving Sendfest

Well, this past week has seen several ascents of some cool boulder problems and since it seems folks enjoy watching video, I'm posting 'em. Was it the ham and Thanksgiving festivities that brought on this onslaught of sendage? I'm not sure, but whatever the cause, the result was awesome to watch. First on the send rampage was Paul bagging Shadow Warrior in Candyland. Truly a beautiful boulder in a picturesque setting with lots of great energy from the crew! You all know about this problem from a previous post (here), so without further ado, here's the send: (love those scissor kicks!)



Paul Barraza on Shadow Warrior [v12]

Courtney got in on the boulder crushing as well by dispatching Zodiac [v10] and Tap Dance [v10] in short order. Zodiac is a crimpy face climb located on the El Cap Boulder along with such classics as Spock Was Here [v6] and some other reachy, dihedral climb whose name I can't recall at the moment (really classic, huh?). Anyway, it was an inspiring night send of a damn tall boulder problem so props to her! And I know Courtney would kill me for not mentioning that the send was much assisted by the outrageously good beta provided by crimp-meister Natasha Barnes.


Courtney Hemphill on Zodiac [v10] FFA?

Tap Dance is a slightly less inspiring line - okay, it's kind of a butt dragger and doesn't have any kind of line at all, but it's still darn fun climbing. Also in contrast to Zodiac, the crux moves are on slopers and technical heel hooks - super cool. It's a rare boulder problem in Yosemite that doesn't require a load of Organic pads to make safe, so for that alone, this problem is a gem. Located on the Wine Boulder, Tap Dance starts sitting matched on an obvious side-pull. Tall people should disregard the beta used below, but for shorties, it's pure brilliance.



Courtney Hemphill on Tap Dance [v10] FFA?

Finally, yesterday Paul ticked off a surprise send of Yabo Roof [v12] made famous in Dosage V. What an awesome climb! After being disappointed by it being wet the week before, we hiked out with some trepidation. Fortunately, all concern was immediately dispelled; conditions couldn't have been more ideal. So Paul, without a fuss, sent on his second try of the day. Sorry for my shaky camera-work, I have excuses, but I won't bore you with them. Kevin came incredibly close to sticking the crux sequence for a double send, but he opted to create more drama by waiting to dispatch. Yes, Justin, you would have run off to puke in the trees if you had seen how close he got.



Paul Barraza on Yabo Roof [v12]

- Lyn

12-3-08: Billy in the Wheel Well

Patti Phillips on Billy in the Wheel Well [v4]

On the way into the valley it is easy to drive on by the Yosemite Speedway boulder, and I have to assume most people do -judging by the amount of pine needles I find on the top-outs. Well, the next time you are looking for somewhere different to warm up or hone your manteling skills, check out this boulder.

Billy in the Well is on the left side and starts on high edges and climbs through slopers to a spartan finish. There is also a sit start that goes at v7, but it is pretty darn lanky.

-Raza

11-26-08: Coffee Talk

Lyn Verinsky on Coffee Talk [v3]

One last post before Thanksgiving to get everyone psyched for holiday sends.

If you wander over to the Lost Boulders to try plurality, you should also check out Coffee Talk, on a boulder just south of Plurality. Start this fun problem on two edges at head height, and climb into the arete and semi-spicy top-out. As you can see, only one pad is necessary.

Happy Thanksgiving!

-Raza

11-24-08: Orange Face

The Orange Face, located at the Bridalveil boulders, is a new line that I climbed last weekend. Monica and I cleaned it earlier in the year and originally thought it would be a moderate. Haha...after trying it for the first time I realized it was in fact going to be quite difficult. The climb is short and powerful followed by a somewhat delicate slopey topout.

Directions: From "Barrel of Laughs" just turn around and you'll see it! From "French Quarter" walk southwest about a hundred yards; it's on the south face of a really large boulder and its orange!

Enjoy!

-Junior

11-17-08: Merganser

The Common Merganser is a large sized duck that, if you are lucky, can be seen surfing the rapids along the Merced river in Yosemite Valley. It is also the name of a a new problem recently climbed by Kevin Cuckavich. The line is striking and tall. It follows the left arete but climbs more like a face problem.

To locate the problem park at the pullout for 'Highway Star' (a 5.10a traditional route) and cross the road. The problem is within spitting distance of the parking area and faces the river. The landing is flat but I'd recommend a few pads due to the height of the crux. Enjoy.


Ingar Shu on Merganser [v6]

-Justin