Friday, November 09, 2007

11-9-07: Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass

Isaac on Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass [v9]

We took another day trip to the valley yesterday and met up with Isaac Caldiero visiting from Utah. Isaac has been killing it lately sending up to v13. We headed down to one of our many undone projects but none of us had any luck nailing it. Later in the night we met up with the ladies in camp 4 and Isaac dispatched Don’t Make Me Kick Your Ass in great style. The first move is very powerful and has sent many good climbers walking away scratching their heads. The rest isn’t easy but it definitely lightens up a bit and involves some fun healhooking, body tension and what else but a tricky mantle at the top. The problem is located on the back of the Columbia boulder.

- TM

Wednesday, November 07, 2007

11-7-07: King Cobra Sit

Brendan on King Cobra Sit [v9]

After two crazy long days and nights of bouldering Courtney and Brendan were still going hard trying the true sit start of King Cobra (note: I hit the record button late). It is rumored that Yuji Hirayama got the FA on this but no one know's for sure. Anyway Brendan probably got the second assent and by lantern Sunday night. I am sure he was cooked when it when down making it even more impressive. The climb involves very technical movement, lots of shoulder flexibility and oh yeah some power. Good work Brendan!

Ps. Sorry again about the dog incident.

TM

Monday, November 05, 2007

11-5-07: Rabbit Habit

Courtney on Rabbit Habit [v8]

As some of you know Courtney is back in Cali after a recent trip back east were she got engaged to one Randy Puro. Now that she is back where else would she rather be then bouldering in Yosemite with her peeps. Here she is sending Rabbit Habit for the first time in supreme style. In typical Yosemite sandbag fashion Courtney thought Rabbit Habit should be downgraded to v6 with the new beta. LOL...

Rabbit Habit is located at the LeConte Cave boulder. The first move involves a huge/cramped 5ft dyno to a slopper. So far shorter people have been stumped until the ladies unlocked a small crimper, which allowed them to readjust their right hand to an undercling and then make the reach. It’s not over after that so don’t give up the ship. The top is tenuous and a little reachy. Good work Courtney!

This is also the finish of Narcissus [v11?]. More can be found on that climb here.
http://betabase.blogspot.com/2006/07/7-22-06-narcissus.html


- TM

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

10-31-07: Shiver Me Timbers


Lyn Verinsky on Shiver Me Timbers [v6]

Last spring, Lyn sent the classic Camp 4 boulder problem Shiver Me Timbers. It's a little reachy for shorter folks, but Lyn managed to send anyway. After doing the tricky face an easy mantel leads to the commiting slab top-out. It's not uncommon to see people hanging out on the juggy foot for 5 minutes to build up their courage. Lyn hiked the final slab in her usual style, another classic in the bag.

-Raza

P.S. Happy Halloween

Sunday, October 28, 2007

10-28-07 Jacob's Ladder


Mike Madigan on Jacob's Ladder [v6?]

Check out this great problem put up last year by Jacob (from Fresno). It is located just up the hill from the Titanic boulder in Camp 4. We initially started the climb on the lower of the two big rails (they are right of Rebekah's right heel), but later discovered that Jacob originally climbed the problem from a lower rail that we were using for our feet! There is also a cool right-hand undercling start that is a lot of fun. The excellent steep moves coupled with an incredibly fun rock-over mantel make this problem a must-try. Below you can see Rebekah working out the tricky heel hook move. Don't be put off by the slightly dirty slab topout.


Rebekah Taggart on Jacob's Ladder [v6?]

-Lyn

Friday, October 26, 2007

10-26-07: Motorcade

Raza on Motorcade [v9] 

Another notable send came Saturday when Paul climbed Motorcade. Paul found this gem last year so getting to the summit has been a long time coming. The three angled rails make for some great slopper pulling with a thrilling mantel at the top. Good work Raza! More can be found on this climb below: http://betabase.blogspot.com/2006/12/12-10-06-motorcade.html -TM

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

10-23-07: The Fall Classic

Alan Moore cheers on John Vallejo as he sends The Fall Classic [v4]

Another new line up at Happy Isles. I'd walked past this many times and never really gave it a second look. For some reason when I was up there on Friday it caught my eye, and a good thing too. This problem begins on two pinches under the small roof. I campused the first move to a pair of good edges, but you could probably hike your foot up really high to start if that's more your style. The rest is pretty obvious. My first sports obsession was baseball and now is the time of year Major League Baseball holds its World Series, otherwise known as the Fall Classic. It just seemed to fit.


-Justin

Monday, October 22, 2007

10-22-07: Prowess

Lyn on Prowess [v7]

I thought everyone would enjoy this. Lyn nabbed her first send of Prowess Saturday night, that's right in the dark! The top out is super sketchy when there is light so I can only imagine how scared she must have felt in the dark. Reverse isn't an option when Lyn is climbing. Listen to the audio at the end for some good entertainment.
It was awesome.

- TM

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

10-16-07: Midnight Lighting


Mike on Midnight Lighting [v8]

Paul had a dream that Mike would send Midnight Lighting and Thriller in one day. Thriller didn’t go down but Midnight Lighting did in great style. Here is a video of Mike bagging the classic for the first time.

- TM

Sunday, October 14, 2007

10-14-07: Atom Smasher

Raza on Atom Smasher [v2]

It had to be something big for my first post here on BetaBase. Fortunately, I had the perfect problem in mind. On September 20th, following a day of light rain I was excited to head up to Happy Isles to try some projects I had cleaned a few days earlier. Unfortunately, nearly everything was still wet...except for the tallest thing there. Truthfully, it was still a bit damp, but I was antsy I did not want to wait. It is probably only V2 or so, but the crux is the last move so bring some gusto and a big crash pad. Here is Paul contemplating the last move.

-Justin

Raza topping out Atom Smasher [v2]