11-17-06: Feet Don't Fail Me Now

Raza on Feet Don't Fail Me Now [v3]

Every once and a while I'll see a line that looks awesome, but just doesn't seem possible. And even some that you think are possible seem too damn scary to even attempt. But on a hot summer's day I got on a rope to check out the line and try to find some holds - and much to my nervous excitement, I found some. The main question was, would I have the cajones to try a boulder problem where the delicate crux is about 20' off the ground? If it got difficult, would there be a way to bail off?

Normally, if such questions were raised, I would just pass on the problem - I never feel the need to cheat death. But the moves on this problem were just too good not to try. Near the end of the day in late October, I dragged the crew out there. The problem turned out to be not that hard, thank god, but the moves and rock were just a good as I had anticipated.

To find this boulder problem, hike from the Happy Isles Nature Center on the Horse trail up the Merced River. Feet Don't Fail Me Now is on the first big boulder on you left.

-Raza

11-16-06: Team America

Courtney Hemphill on Team America [v5]

On the right side of the same boulder with Six Degrees sits another cool arete line. It's much easier than Six Degrees but just as fun. Start low and right on some slopes and climb the arete/lip. There is a bail out half way up on a big shelf. The problem keeps climbing left at that point until you are pretty high up and the arete is vertical.

To find this problem, walk behind the Cocaine Corner boulder and you will see the boulder facing you, just up the hill.

-Raza

11-14-06: Torque

Tim Medina on Torque [v7]

Another problem on the LeConte cave with fun, interesting, moves not typically found on granite. This problem is on the same boulder as Narcissus.

Start on obvious flat starting jug and climb up steep, subtle dihedral. It tops out up the crack and right. While it is a little puckery, the landing is flat and with a few spotters and pads - not too bad. There theoretically could be a low start (the same start as Narcissus) but it would be damn hard. Maybe v13/14? Can you say Sharma?

-Raza

10-26-06: Flatline

Tim Medina on Flatline [v9]

The first thing I thought of when I saw the line that would eventually become Flatline was, "Holy crap!" The line is tall, proud and a tad clenchy. We weren't quite sure if it would even go because the top section looked pretty thin. Tim found a sequence for the upper section and he got the FA of the problem this last spring - with only one spotter!

The problem is on the same boulder as Lifeline, adjacent to the Athletes Die Young boulder near the LeConte Memorial. Start on the thin crimps and work your way up to the 'nose' feature in the dihedral. Finish up and right on the technical face, which is probably v5/6 in it's own right. If you want to do the scariest v6 in the valley you can start to the right on underclings and climb your way into the finish of Lifeline. That start is called Heart Attack. Hmm....

-Raza

10-06-06: The House of Glass

Scott Frye on House of Glass [v3]

With a name like that, you would think that the whole thing is ready to fall down. Contrary to what you might think, this problem isn't going anywhere. It's another one of those improbable looking faces that are easier than they look. When Scott and Lyn were first trying to figure out the beta it seemed pretty darn hard. Once they figured out the beta, it was like the bubble popped and then it was like: Oh, this is only v3!

To get to this technical & crimpy face, walk up towards Bruce Lee and it will be on your right. It is actually just up the hill from All Hands on Deck. If you look back at the photos you can see the House of Glass boulder in the background. Start standing with some small crystally crimps and head up to a 'U' shaped bucket and then up and right to the top.

-Raza

9-10-06: Crystals, in Yosemite?

Matt Keebler on an unknown problem [v5?] in The Crystals

In Camp 4, if you hike past battle of the bulge you will eventually venture over to 'The Crystals'. Even though it was in the guidebook since I bought the damn thing, I never checked it out until Junior & Matt Keebler took me over there. There are a number of fun problems over there (see the earlier post about Team Effort) and this one is a fun, although it is unnamed according to the guidebook.

8-23-06: Sonic Wave

Lyn Verinsky on Sonic Wave [v8]

Up the hill from and a to the left of Bruce Lee lies a couple of boulders. The right boulder has about four lines pioneered by Scott Frye and Jeff Webb on a trip to the valley a couple of years ago. The left boulder, has a cool power problem called Sonic Wave.

Sonic Wave starts with a left hand "sloper edge" and a right hand undercling. Fight to get your feet on and punch to the good sloping edge. Don't give up the ship yet, though. The top-out, while easier than the bottom, is very spicy. The landing is a jumble of boulders and falling off is not an option. On one of my early attempts at the top-out, I got my hands crossed up and did this crazy jump to an adjacent boulder. I would not recommend this. Try the top-out first, bring some trusty spotters, and bring your guns.

-Raza

8-11-05: Prototype arete

Prototype Arete [v7]

I have to give Scott Frye credit for sniffing out this line. I looked at it for a minute but it was his stubborn optimism that kept him searching for holds. Eventually, he sucked me into looking for holds and amazingly enough... we found a climb. It's called the prototype arete because it was the first time Scott got to use his prototype - a can of compressed air (think computer duster) attached to a pole with a string hanging down to control the air. A true Frye invention.

This boulder is just below the newly discovered LeConte cave and starts on a good right facing sidepull. Pull up and navigate through some slopers and edges up to the top. The moves are dependent on your body being in just the right position - if you're body is off just a little bit, the moves feel impossible. If you in the right position, it feels easy!

-Raza

8-5-06: Lifeline

Tim Medina on Lifeline [v7]

Another boulder, near the LeConte Memorial, is tall and gigantic. Heading straight up the middle would be death-defying. Luckily, the is a line on the left side with a lower top out. There is a large rock in the landing area, but it actually makes it easier to spot the top out. The slope of the rock actually makes the pads into something like a slide.

Tim got the first ascent with an amazing night ascent. While most of us were thinking about steak and salad, Tim strapped on the headlamp and climbed the damn thing.

The line has cool steep climbing with interesting moves. You're not pulling straight down hardly at all. Start in the "cave" with hands at head height and climb up an slightly right. Finish in the "V" notch rocking up and left and avoiding the adjacent boulder to your left. A thrilling finish to a fun problem. There is also a lower start called "Lifeline Low" strangely enough that starts on a flat bar and climbs up into Lifeline. That starts goes at v10.

-Raza

7-22-06: Narcissus

Randy Puro on the first ascent of Narcissus [v11?]

The last snow storm of the very wet spring season fell on April 17th. The Yosemite bouldering crew was beginning to look like caged rats on a sinking ship. From the end of April to the beginning of June, our short season exploded at a frantic pace. It started with problems like Pin Ball Wizard, which was brushed while it was still raining.

One of the best finds of the season was a cool cave behind and just a little to the right of the LeConte Memorial. The LeConte Cave has four main lines, two of which can be done from a low start deep in the cave that Randy pioneered. A third could be done from the low start, but it would be damn hard (v13/14?).

Narcissus starts low and links into Rabbit Habit, the crux of which is a 5 foot dyno. On May 13th, Randy got the first acent. It not only looks good, it's a great problem too!

-Raza