Wednesday, August 23, 2006
Lyn Verinsky on Sonic Wave [v8]
Up the hill from and a to the left of Bruce Lee lies a couple of boulders. The right boulder has about four lines pioneered by Scott Frye and Jeff Webb on a trip to the valley a couple of years ago. The left boulder, has a cool power problem called Sonic Wave.
Sonic Wave starts with a left hand "sloper edge" and a right hand undercling. Fight to get your feet on and punch to the good sloping edge. Don't give up the ship yet, though. The top-out, while easier than the bottom, is very spicy. The landing is a jumble of boulders and falling off is not an option. On one of my early attempts at the top-out, I got my hands crossed up and did this crazy jump to an adjacent boulder. I would not recommend this. Try the top-out first, bring some trusty spotters, and bring your guns.
Friday, August 11, 2006
Prototype Arete [v7]
I have to give Scott Frye credit for sniffing out this line. I looked at it for a minute but it was his stubborn optimism that kept him searching for holds. Eventually, he sucked me into looking for holds and amazingly enough... we found a climb. It's called the prototype arete because it was the first time Scott got to use his prototype - a can of compressed air (think computer duster) attached to a pole with a string hanging down to control the air. A true Frye invention.
This boulder is just below the newly discovered LeConte cave and starts on a good right facing sidepull. Pull up and navigate through some slopers and edges up to the top. The moves are dependent on your body being in just the right position - if you're body is off just a little bit, the moves feel impossible. If you in the right position, it feels easy!
Saturday, August 05, 2006
Tim Medina on Lifeline [v7]
Another boulder, near the LeConte Memorial, is tall and gigantic. Heading straight up the middle would be death-defying. Luckily, the is a line on the left side with a lower top out. There is a large rock in the landing area, but it actually makes it easier to spot the top out. The slope of the rock actually makes the pads into something like a slide.
Tim got the first ascent with an amazing night ascent. While most of us were thinking about steak and salad, Tim strapped on the headlamp and climbed the damn thing.
The line has cool steep climbing with interesting moves. You're not pulling straight down hardly at all. Start in the "cave" with hands at head height and climb up an slightly right. Finish in the "V" notch rocking up and left and avoiding the adjacent boulder to your left. A thrilling finish to a fun problem. There is also a lower start called "Lifeline Low" strangely enough that starts on a flat bar and climbs up into Lifeline. That starts goes at v10.