Tuesday, October 11, 2005
The Real Deal (aka The Frustration) [v10]
Dustin Sabo climbed this line near the end of 2003. There seems to be somewhat of a debate, however, about who climbed if first. I don't have any good info either way, so I'll put both sides.
Greg Loh named this boulder problem The Frustration because he was frustrated with people naming boulder problems before doing them, but of course this doesn't seem like the case. Might it also be because there are some really low percentage moves at the lip?
The problem is COOL. Try to make it down there on a cloudy day because it sits directly in the sun for most of the day. This problem is hidden just down the hill a little bit from White Lines.
Dustin Sabo posted this comment on 10-9-06: WOW IT'S "THE REAL DEAL" NOT THE FRUSTRATION. HOW DARE YOU GREG!! NEVER NAME SOMEONE'S BOULDER PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IF YOUR GOING TO POST THIS ON THE INTERNET TRY GETTING YOUR FACTS STRAIT. ASK GREG IF WHEN HE FIRST WALKED UP TO IT IF IT ALREADY HAD CHALK ON IT. I KNOW IT DID I PUT IT THERE. ENOUGH IS ENOUGH, STOP WITH THIS BULL.
Sorry Dustin, but I didn't have any contact information for you to verify or double check anything. Unfortunately, it's going to be hard to prove it either way, unless someone has some 'evidence'.
Monday, October 10, 2005
The Ashtray [v12]
photos: Lyn Verinsky
The Ashtray is a fun problem with great moves. There's only one problem, the rock is kind of "prickly". If the rock was a little more friendly I think this problem would be on the short list for most classic boulder problem in California. The problem is still great even with the sharpness of the rock.
I was getting baffled with the crux sequence until Randy came up with some great beta: basically get super scrunchy on this tiny foot and rock over. Mad props to Randy.
Want to try it yourself but having a hard time finding it? Just about everybody I know has gotten lost at least once trying to find it. The most basic directions: hike out to Big Chief and bear left after the big mud pit. The GPS coordinates are:
[N 39º14.596 W 120º11.775]
Now you don't have any excuse for not checking it out! If you have Google Earth, click HERE.